Merry Christmas from The Smiling Coast

Merry Christmas and other such holiday greetings!!

Christmas Eve Sunset on The Smiling Coast

Just back from a lovely Christmas Eve mass in our fair Old Jeshwang, and want to wish each and every one of you a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

Till we connect again in 2011...This is Matty In The Gambia reminding you...Don't Stop Believin!!

Crocodile Rock and other WHAT's up

Yo, Yo...Ho, Ho!! 

It has been a rather relaxing, yet adventurous week here in West Africa, as M.C. and I have taken to exploring many of what were the “yet-to-be gotten to areas” of our (not-so) new (anymore) home. As most of you back home are only now settling in for your holiday activities—it being Christmas Eve Eve today, undoubtedly the best day of the year—we have been, in fact, enjoying the first of our two-weeks break from work (as the NSGA headquarters has shut down, and field work ceased for the holidays). So, it has been that we’ve enjoyed (as always) a few days lazily moping about the hammocks beach-side at our favourite Ex-Pat restaurant and bar, Leybato’s...book in hand (I’m on to Dickens now—Great Expectations). But, also during the week, you would have found us taking advantage of our free days by hoping on the trusty pedal bikes to meander the maze of streets, alleys, and “highways” that make up our corner of the world and get to the sites we had yet to visit.

Here’s a taste of WHAT has been up.

First of all, I would be remiss if I were not to mention our fantastic and successful Canadian Christmas Party, hosted at the Old Jeshwang homestead this past Saturday evening. We were joined by a dozen of our colleagues, as well as several other friends and neighbours for Christmas music and treats, a Crazy Eights (Crazy Eights rules in The Gambia turning the game into Crazier Eights...more to come on this later) tourney, several rousing games of Scrabble, and last but not least a most-enjoyed-by-all Yankee Swap, in which I came away with a box of the most delicious chocolate filled cookies. Mmmmm dericious! 

No, it was a different evening from the Christmas parties we are used to back home, but being surrounded by friends in happy and high spirits isn’t, in fact, all that different from what we really aspire to at this time of year anyways...is it? And, furthermore, it felt nice to not only be able to celebrate the season in some manner, but to also include our friends here in The Gambia. Friends, who have gone out of their way to make us feel comfortable and at home in our now 7+ weeks here. 

Canadian Christmas Party = Success!

Sunday...was a beach day...all day. Sun...shine...cards...book...music...waves...walk...and...JulBrew.

Monday, I shook hands with a Crocodile. Literally.

Kachakally Crocodile Pond is a mere 10-15 minute bike-ride from our apartment, towards the water in Bakau. After zigzagging through the innards of Bakau, a nice little adventure in itself, we arrived at the Pond/Bakau Museum entrance. Before getting to the crocodiles, you walk through the museum—three huts dedicated to the history of Bakau. The first hut is dedicated to the ceremonial past of Bakau...namely the ceremonial practice of circumcision...male and female. Literally, there are over a dozen pictures and descriptions of a young man or women, fresh from the scissors. And yet, after being here for 7+ weeks and having been privy to the rather candid discussion that takes place among people here regarding these practices, neither of us was all that phased with the idea that a museum would pay homage to such. Hut number two displayed various musical instruments and the role of music throughout the ages in Bakau. The third hut was a depiction of the role played by Gambian soldiers in the two world wars. I was, in fact, quite surprised to learn about the impact that West Africans had in the allied efforts.

After spending 20-or-so minutes museuming...we wandered the path through the trees...BIG trees. Seriously, you gotta see these things until we were...wait a minute...is that...wait, that is. Holy crap! That’s a crocodile...no, it’s not a real...yes it is! That’s a crocodile...right in front of us. 

As M.C. said, could you imagine if you came with little kids who ran ahead and all of a sudden tripped over Gus the crocodile laying there...mouth wide-open, cooling in the shade.

There’s no warning...no friendly reminder that you’re nearing your new reptilian friends. You basically round the corner and are face-to-face with over 80 crocodiles; a little unnerving at first. But, then we realized that these guys are so lethargic, so drugged up—I said to the guy tending the shop “They must be drugged up, right?” He said, “No, just herbs and natural medicines.” To which I said, “Yea, that’s drugs.”...with a smile—that they really pose no threat at all. The guy also explained that they do not eat human flesh and that I should shake hands with one of them. “No, that’s alright,” I said. He insisted. I relented” (And the above pic is proof...

(And as a wise-ish man once said “A proof is a proof. And when you have a proof, that’s a proof”, or something to that effect).

Tuesday was the best beach day of the year so far. The waves were money. The sun was great. And, there was a lovely breeze that swept along the coast. Furthermore, we met up with two new Canadian friends Tuesday evening for dinner on the beach. Emma and Paul had just arrived to undertake, like ourselves, a five-month CIDA internship here in The Gambia. Oh how nice it was to sit down and commiserate with folks from home.  It was lovely evening...and to top it off, I found a nice little spot to enjoy JulBrew on tap on our way back to Old Jeshwang.

Wednesday, yesterday, was a particularly special day here in The Gambia as we were invited by our new friends from the U.S. Peace Corps to join them for lunch and Christmas cookies...and Wii, at the U.S. Embassy house that one of the girls was briefly staying at.

First thing in the morning, however, we hoped on the bikes and made our way to the Serrekunda Market, a labyrinth of epic proportions, where showering pre-visit is wasted water. We walked for an hour, through the vegetables and fish (with a large order of flies on the side), the clothing, and the little trinkets that make up a market before we decided that was had had a good first visit and decided to head cross-country (exploring a new area—Koto) towards Senegambia to meet up with our U.S. friends. We arrived at the Embassy mansion and enjoyed a lovely hamburger pie with Christmas Carols playing in the background, a couple games of Wii tennis and made peanut-butter cookies with caramel centres which tasted great, all the while enjoying the air conditioned reprieve from the world around us. I could have mistaken myself for being back home, but then realized that I, or no one I know, has a place that nice back home.

Last night, we put the Muppet Family Christmas on (you know that old one where all the Muppet, Sesame Street, and Fraggle characters are at Fozzy Bear’s mother country home for Christmas and the Swedish Chef tries to cook Big Bird...gobbly gobbly humongor!) and really got into the spirit...er spirits...

So, yea...it’s been a great week. Sunset on the beach this evening another treat. Tomorrow will most likely be a beach day. Saturday, Christmas Day, we have been invited to Banjul by our colleague Nuru to a barbeque and to enjoy the “Masquerades” that take place throughout the city. Sunday, we will adventurously take to the road and travel cross-border to Dakar, Senegal for 5-or-so days. We are told that when all goes smoothly, it is a 6-hour trip, but to be prepared for the worst travel day of our lives. I’m sure it will all be worth it though to experience what is supposed to be a diverse and lively city...And, since we parlez-vous, we’ve been assured that getting about the city will be relatively easy.

So...although scrambled and speed-written, that is the WHAT of what has been up over the past week-ish here in The Gambia.

I trust all is well across the world for each and every one of you. Best wishes for the holiday season from Matty In The Gambia! And, be in touch. I’ll be in touch once returned from Senegal next week.

Till Next Time...Don’t Stop Believin,

Matty

And so it goes...

Wow...just like that it’s been a whole week (again) since I’ve last touched base with all my fans (appropriate to refer to all as such?). But, as quick as time must seem to fly for all those combating the quickly coming holiday season, we here on The Smiling Coast are also caught up in the swift swirl of time as it flies by...as pleasantly as the newly arrived winter breeze, I must add. Yes, the winter weather here in The Gambia is the tits! (M.C. says I can use that word) I awake in the mornings not sweaty, bike to work only mildly sweaty upon arrival, and spend my evenings enjoying the pleasant and non-insufferable winter nights.

I spent much of the last week taking a daily transit (an adventure on its own) in to our fare capital city of Banjul—a fifteen to twenty minute sojourn—to aide my fellow colleague, Yankouba Bojang (NSGA Drama Touper) conduct two Malaria prevention & Behaviour Change Communication workshops with both high school and middle school aged students. Having not ever been threatened by malaria, nor educated the littlest bit about the parasite, I was at first unsure of what my contribution to these seminars would be...until we got to the communication piece and I found my opening.

Persuasion, rhetoric, energizers and games...these are my bag, and though needing to be simplified for young minds, I was able to impart some knowledge of the Ethos, Pathos and Logos needed to convince others that sleeping under an insecticide-treated bed-net is the best way to prevent the spread of malaria throughout West Africa.

***

So, now we are on our two-week holiday, while the office here closes for Christmas. Yes, we live in an overwhelmingly predominant Muslim country, but still there exists a flavour of Christmas. And, we are assured, there is lots of fun to be had both on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day—with masquerades aplenty in Banjul.

Oh yea, we (well...mostly M.C.) are hosting a Christmas Party this evening (I’m just along for my youthful good looks and wit) at our pad in Old Jeshwang for our friends, colleagues and neighbours. We are even going to try a Yankee Swap...which reminds me...I have yet to pick up a small gift. Hmmmm, best be getting on to that.

In the meantime everyone, I will endeavour to get back to this blog in short order with a report from our party and an update on our holiday happenings.

Also, I need to redeem myself in our Cribbage epic. After stretching out to a 20-11 lead, I now (after three skunks and a 9-game losing streak) find myself down 23-20...eeek. Time to turn things around.

Until Next Time...Don’t Stop Believin,

Matty 

Pics

I know it's been a long-time coming...but I was finally able to upload pictures from our first month here in The Gambia.

For those of you keeping score at home, we have been here just over 5 weeks now. That's 1/4 of our journey in the books...now those books are up on flickr, here

Enjoy!

Till Next Time...Don't Stop Believin.

Matty

Apples and Bananas - A story of Principle

Some people may say that I’m stubborn...

But I prefer to call myself...well...principled.

But, let’s just be honest. This “principle” I speak of, is really just my way to rationalize stubbornness in my own head.

To make a long-story short...I got out- “principled” last night.

And so the story goes:

The power was out in Old Jeshwang as I returned to the pad around 7pm from a good little workout at the gym-ish just down the road. With no food in the apartment, and no power to enjoy the cool and steady breeze of the fan, M.C. and I decided that the timing would be perfect to hop on the trusty ole’ pedal-bikes and head down to Kairaba Avenue to the “super-market” and fruit & vegetable vendors.

No issues at the super-market, as we left with our usual supply of yogurt, muesli, orange juice, bread, cookies, spaghetti, sauce, chick peas, kidney beans, and coffee (yeeeeeeeeees Nescafe Classic).

Now onto the fruit and vegetable vendors to haggle over apples and bananas...and tomatoes and cucumber, should our mood insight the purchase...we never even got to the vegetable conversation.

First stop was with our buddy (not our buddy) who situates himself just beside the super-market...Bananas: 40 Dalasis for 1kg...not too bad...manageable at the very least for bananas that look like they could at least withstand two-days of heat before falling to pieces (falling to pieces will here forth be referred to as “going bananas”). Apples: 15 Dalasis each...the usual starting point for your green apple here in Fajara, as “these apples (I have been told with great reverence) are brought in from Europe...no good, can’t go lower”.

Now, I have come to realize that no matter what vendors tell you...fruit is fruit...apples are apples...bananas are bananas...and in the African heat, nothing lasts.

I don’t care how “good” these apples are, I want to buy at least eight, and there is no way I am paying more than 25 Dalasis for two...that’s eight apples for 100 Dalasis. That was my request (I would take the kilo of bananas for 40...I just wanted eight apples for 100). Vendor says “no good”...I say “good bye”...and start across the street to the other vendor leaving M.C. standing there frustrated at my “principled” approach with our buddy (not our buddy).

Onto to vendor #2...

“How much for apples”, I say.

“15 Dalasis for one”, he says.

 “Two for 25”, I say.

“No good”, he says.

“C’mon...eight for 100”, I say.

He bags’em up. VICTORY...so I think...

“How much for bananas?”, I say.

” 50 Dalasis a kilo”, he says.

“The guy across the street is selling them for 40”, I say.

 “No, these good bananas”, he says.

“Bananas are bananas!” I say (at this point, I am going a little bananas).

“No, these very good bananas”, he says.

“Too good for me”, I say...and take off just as M.C. is arriving on the scene (In retrospect, I feel bad for leaving her in my dust once again...but I was blinded by “principle”).

Onto to the third attempt, around the corner at the actual fruit and vegetable market, rife with a dozen or so stands (re: lots of opportunity to engage in principled discussion and surely come away with fruit)

...to find it closed.

“I’m not going back to the first two”, I say defiantly to M.C.

Home, we bike...in silence...

At this point...Matty is unhappy—unhappy that I don’t have fruit, but too “principled” to easily ascertain said fruit.

You see, I was sure that upon walking away from the first vendor that he would call out and say...”ok...deal, bananas for 40 dalasis and eight apples for 100.”

Upon getting all the way across the street to the second vendor, I was CERTAIN that when I walked away from him he would call out and say...”ok...deal, bananas for 40 dalasis and eight apples for 100.”

I never pictured myself walking to an empty fruit market...fruitless...principled, but fruitless just the same.

At the end of the day for the cost of 10 dalasis—40 Canadian cents give-or-take—I could have enjoyed a nice (yet ever-spoiling) banana this morning with my muesli and yogurt...and a nice crunchy apple as I wrote this post.

But, at the end of the day, I stood on “principle”...Yes, despite this setback, I am able to look myself in the mirror and say “Matt...you are a principled human-being...And I am far too stubborn to ever give that up.

***

FYI: I’m headed down the alley as we speak to grab a couple bananas...I’m leaving my principle here at the computer.

Till Next Time...Don’t Stop Believin

Matty

Billy Goats Gruff

Before I begin, let me just say that I am super-duper sorry about my absence from the scene. A week with no posts is unacceptable, and yet I implore you to accept my excuse...that being that I have in vain been trying to download a video to the blog...unsuccessfully three or four times now. So here goes with the alternative...enjoy.

***

In North America, 40 might be the new 30 (or something to that effect) but over here...Stray goats are the new stray dog.

Now I’ve had the fortune to travel through parts of Southeast Asia and South America and I have seen my fair share of strays roaming the streets...lookin for trouble. I’ve been barked at more often than I care to remember by a stray mutt...but, it has always been a mutt (rhyme alert).

Here in The Gambia, however, I would venture to guess that stray goats outnumber stray dogs AT LEAST 5 to 1. There are goats everywhere...peeing and pooping on the street, baaa-ing at me and M.C. (rhyme alert #2)...and, of course, eatin garbage.

Now, it would actually be unfair for me to classify these goats as “strays” per say—I do it for pure amusement purposes. In fact, these goats leave from, and return to, their owners...their compounds...on a morning and nightly basis. They stroll the avenue (I kid you not, there are goats criss-crossing the busy Kairaba Avenue) and play gaily in the alleyways, all the while being left to their own devices by all passerby’s.

We have been informed that it is very rare that a goat will be “stolen” while away from its yard, and that all community members respect the fact that these goats represent a great deal of a person/family’s livelihood (in the way of goat milk and cheese).

...If only people had the same respect for un-supervised bicycles (We do not allow our bikes unattended without being locked up, in any circumstance).

***

Nice little aside to this goat story; We have our own adopted “pet” goat in our compound. Oliver (as M.C. named him) or Sh*thead (as I, so endearingly, named him—because we wake up every morning to a driveway full of goat pellets) is owned by our neighbours. He, though, NEVER leaves the yard. I think he’s lonely...and my god, he’s a homely looking thing.

Sh*thea...I mean Oliver - Homeliness Personified (you can scarcely make out the pee stain and pellets in the background

Until next time...Don’t Stop Believin

Matty

***

Cribbage Update: Matty stretched it out yesterday to a 19-11 lead...peggin strong.

Pakalinding

Hello all!

Since last checking in I’ve had the opportunity to part take in a few trips up country with the most recent one being to CRR (Central River Region). It was a full week in the field and took in two different 3 day workshops on HIV/AIDS and life skills for out of school youth. I travelled and facilitated the workshop with a co-worker and trainer from NSGA Abdou Kanteh. The week was full of learning and new experiences for me both in and out of the classroom.

First up-in the classroom. Abdou having come from the region was able to relate so well to both groups that we taught. There was a wide age range within the group from about 16-mid 30’s along with various different life experiences but the main thing connecting each participant was that no one was pursuing further schooling at this point. Some would have finished grade 12, some may not have, but all stood to benefit from information about HIV and AIDS and perhaps more importantly life skills such as critical thinking, decision making, emotion management, relationship and communication skills. The approach being that over the years there has been a lot of different initiatives around HIV/AIDS teaching and the general thought is that youth are aware of the risk and yet are still falling victim to HIV. Behaviour change is what is needed to combat this powerful virus and hopefully with teaching these life skills and empowering youth progress will be made in the fight against HIV and AIDS.

I did my best to contribute in the teaching of puberty, reproductive health and STI’s but there were a few obstacles. One-Mandinka (the local language). Although most participants could speak some English Abdou had to step in more than once to explain what I was trying to teach in Mandinka. I know it’s hard to believe but my own Mandinka is not quite up to par. Second-cultural and religious practices. This is a constant learning process. For instance- with regards to sexual health I had to avoid talking about condoms or birth control as they were not accepted within the communities we were working with. I also had some very interesting conversations surrounding female circumcision and early marriage. It is by times difficult to balance your own values and beliefs while attempting to understand another’s point of view.

Second up- Out of the classroom. As I mentioned Abdou was from the region (Pakalinding) and therefore I got to meet and spend lots of quality time with his immediate and extended family at their local compound. I can’t say enough about how welcoming and giving Gambians are. This was constantly displayed by his family and friends. They embraced me the moment I entered. Kids wanted to just be close to me, hold my hand or play with my hair. It is a strange feeling to have your every move watched with so much amazement. I should say most of the kids wanted to be close to me. There was one little girl (Abdou’s niece) who was absolutely terrified of me. She had never seen a white person before and would scream in terror when I entered the room. This went on for about 5 days but then on the 6^th day I made a breakthrough. Over dinner I caught her glancing at me from across the bowl (communal eating) and she actually smiled. I of course smiled back with much excitement.

One of my favourite moments included the dance circles that we would have mid afternoon. One of the younger girls would grab a water bucket and a few sticks start the drumming, the clapping and signing would follow. Eventually the elders would drag me up into the center of the circle and songs about me would start. There were a lot of chants like “Dance Toubab Dance” (dance white girl dance) I was initially rather shy and red as a beat but eventually broke out some classic Connolly moves handed down to me from generations of phenomenal dancers.

All in all it was a week I will never forget! I was however pleased to get back to our apartment that has quickly become home and hop on the new bike and head for the beach. A tough life I know...

Until next time, stay fit and have fun!

Mary Catherine

On the Road Again

I’m back! Back from the road...again. This time, from a full week’s worth of entertaining and informing young and old alike in communities of the Upper River Region (URR). I was stationed in Basse—the hub of URR action and, as it turns out (despite its mere 300kms distance from Fajara), a long drive...try almost 8 hours. But, the drive itself is lovely, the “highway” is well-manicured, the scenery at times is breath-taking, and I got to take two ferry rides each way, as we criss-crossed the River Gambia heading up-country.

Sunrise at Georgetown Ferry on the River Gambia

Now, like my previous roadie, the purpose of the expedition was to educate and inform youth about the dangers of HIV/AIDS and empower them with the necessary Life Skills to live happily and healthily. This time, however, we were dealing with out-of-school youth (aged 20-45). Everything proceeded famously, although much of the training was done in the Mandinka language...of which I am still a basic novice in comprehension, oral and certainly written...but I’m learning!

The highlights of the trip for me, however, were the evening soccer training sessions (here forth known as “football”) at the local pitch...err sandlot, followed by the nightly presentation of NSGA’s community cinema shows put on by my partner in crime, Pa-Madou Sarr (NSGA Media expert and trainer). Each night, myself and Pa, with Uncle Sanna at the wheel would head into a different small village on the outskirts of Basse and set up shop with our two speakers, stereo system, projector and screen, to show one of the many dramas recorded by the NSGA drama troupers (these skits deal with a wide range of health issues including teenage preganancy and early marriage).

See video below. (Err...don't. I tried to upload a video, but the connection here is too slow. Just one of the challenges at hand)

To top the whole trip off, upon the completion of our workshops, the local Basse Youth Association hosted a friendly football match in which yours truly suited up (luckily, as I mentioned, I had been training throughout the week) and stole the show...well not really, at times I felt I was wading through quicksand out on the dust and dirt. I would be running to receive a ball on terre firma when all of a sudden the earth would give way and I would be ankle deep in sand. I kid you not, it’s a whole different kettle of fish from what I’m used to dealing with back home. But, I did manage to set up a beauty goal (long ball chased down by one of the many Speedy Gonzalez’s out playing...man these guys can motor) and at the end of the second 25-minute half we were knotted at two goals apiece.

Basse Red Devils...and white guy

There is lots more to tell about my time in Basse, but I’ll save those stories and offer a steady dose of blog action as this week passes...my treat to all you faithful followers out there.

Glad to be back at the homestead...M.C. and I indulged in a few JulBrew’s as we debriefed Friday down at the beach (M.C. had been in the Central River Region village of Somma) and then hit the “town” with a cluster of U.S. Peace Corps members celebrating the Thanksgiving weekend. 

So yeah, glad to be back in Old Jeshwang and connected here in Fajara...but to be honest...I can’t wait to get on the road again.

Till next time, Don’t Stop Believin.

Matty

***

Follow @Matty_TheGambia on Twitter for all your Gambian updates and thoughts.

Holy Tobaski!!

Back home, the holidays are a time of celebration and gathering among family and friends. We dress up; good food and drink are shared; games are played; and laughter is at a paramount. This practice, it would seem, is universal...and our observance of the Tobaski feast has shown us so.

Tobaski...with an I (the Coles Notes version), as it was explained to me, is the annual Islamic festival of sacrifice; which  celebrates the ancient prophet, Ibrahim’s, promise to God that he would sacrifice his son, Ismail. God, in return and out of appreciation for Ibrahim’s gesture, replaced the son with a ram to be sacrificed instead.

***(You may want to read up on Tobaski on your own to get the story straight...obtaining accurate information all the time is a struggle with the resources available here)***

And, so it was that M.C. and I witnessed the slaughter...er, sacrifice of two rams on Tuesday.

***

Here on The Smiling Coast, two naive Canadians set out early on a sunny—everyday is sunny—Tuesday morning, alongside their Gambian colleague and friend, Nuru Sey, to join him and his family in the celebration.

Nuru stopped by our homestead in Old Jeshwang promptly at 9:30am, and we strolled to the main thoroughfare where we (Nuru) whistled down a worn 12 passenger van (public transport)—the old Doakmobile has nothing on this thing—with more than 12 locals aboard, to take us to the Sey family house in Busumballa (about a half hour trip). We were happily greeted by the Sey family (mother, brothers, sisters, in-laws, nephews and niece) with open arms.

Sacrifice of the Ram

By 11am, the men of the house—yours truly excluded—were dragging the first of two Rams to a hole dug in the soil, where the animal’s blood and innards would be drained and covered in hopes of fertilizing the arid land in the year ahead. I have to be honest; I was initially unsure of whether or not I would be able to watch the ram being slain, but it really was not as much of a struggle as I had anticipated.

Throat slit; blood drained; quick, easy and efficient... and on to the next Ram. Once both animals lay completely lifeless and devoid of excess blood, it was on to the skinning and dismembering of the bodies, and beginning of the barbeque. MMMMMMMM dericious!

Nuru (in yellow) with brothers and niece skinning sacrificed ram

By 12 noon, M.C. and I were enjoying a lovely dish of liver and onions (gamey), accompanied by chips (homemade fries) and salad. Rest assured that I took it upon myself to make certain that no trace of meat was left for the flies.

Game time!!

Soon after finishing up “Breakfast”, our colleague Muhammed and his wife Kelly (a native of Moncton, NB) arrived with their Scrabble board and Muhammed and I took to action.

I got pumped.

Turning point in the game... I decided not to challenge the use of the word “vetos”, which he had placed in a spot that would garner him over 40 points. I teetered back and forth for several minutes over whether or not the pluralized use of the word should read “vetoes” before I decided to let it stand. Bad move...game over.

I did redeem myself—somewhat—with much more closely contested win over M.C., before the real entertainment took place, in the form of Nuru and his older brother, Bashir, head-to-head at the scrabble board. Never in all my life have I seen such an “oilly” (yes, it was that type of game) and underhanded match at the board game table. But, for all those who observed, the sheer amount of pleasure and laughter that came from watching the two brothers try to outsmart and out- manoeuvre each other was priceless. Best part...the game was interrupted by an irreconcilable argument, and a winner could never truly be declared (although Nuru was ahead by a wide margin at that point).

More Food and more games

By 4:30-5pm, having snacked throughout the afternoon, “Lunch” was served. A large helping of Benechin (meal made from one pot)—rice with meat, pumpkin and eggplant—was served, and again...I ate plenty.

Before being able to fully digest the soccer ball was out and a 2v2 game was established just out the walls to the yard. To touch a ball for the first time since arriving here in The Gambia was FANTASTIC. Despite the size and condition of our playing surface—dust and rocks—the boys and I enjoyed a good 45 minutes of exercise and competition, and again...laughter. I proved, once again, to myself and to those around me, that I am NOT a goal scorer (no comments needed from anyone).

Sergio |Ramos digs in...

By 7:30pm, we were on our way back to the apartment to recover from and recast the day in our heads.

The Dress

Something I must mention is the traditional garb sported by most throughout the Tobaski celebration.  Now, in the run of a week (most prominently on Fridays) we will come across handfuls of locals decked out in the most colourful and vivacious of outfits. However, Tobaski represents a special opportunity for Gambians to truly and visibly show their pride in themselves, their faith and their land. The array of colors on the young kids, especially, is something to see.

Nuru's two nephews and niece

***

The dress, the family and friends, the food and drink (although non-alcoholic), the games and the laughter...it was just like being at home, and we were certainly made to feel as so.

Until next time...Don’t Stop Believin.

***

FYI: Just today we were able to hit market with Uncle Sanna at the wheel to bargain for ourselves two beauty sets of our own wheels...second-hand bikes (I got a red, three-speed). We are ready to roll from here on in.

Also, we are back on the road for a full week come tomorrow morning. We look forward to sharing our experience “up-country” upon our return...next weekend.

Matty 

Hello!

Hello all!

It is with great excitement that I say hi for the first time from...The Gambia! I’m the lucky (or crazy) girl that is traveling, working and living with Matt in The Gambia (MattyInTheGambia). I am happy to note that we are 2 weeks in and no fights! More specifically I’m the grateful Health Education Intern with ACIC and the NSGA.

Things have changed dramatically in my life over the past month. I went from nursing in PEI (the beautiful Island I call home) to a short chaotic month in Halifax, NS and now waking up to the African sun and heat. I’m am so proud to be working with The NSGA as in the little time I have been around this organization their work and impact on Gambian youth is remarkable. I have lots to learn about just what it is they do and how they go about it but each day I learn more. Hopefully with time I’ll be able to use some of nursing background and help along the way. The staff here have already proved to be amazing hosts and so very welcoming! They are also ever so patient as they try to teach me Wolof (one of The Gambia’s spoken dialects) and I struggle to even catch on to “hello” or “my name is”...I’ll keep you updated on my progress.

An important lesson I’ve learned in my short time in this country is to trust the cute little girls in the market when they sell you peppers and giggle while saying “they are very hot”. This is not to be underestimated. For instance using all of them in the spaghetti sauce or touching your eyes after cutting them leads to a bad scene. Your eyes feel like they have been pepper sprayed (or what I assume this would be like) and Matt is forced to flush your eyes out under the shower. Eiik. That was the start to my first attempt at a meal in our new place. Things can only get better?

I will be in touch from time to time. This will vary depending on the access to the internet. As you’ve heard from Matt it is a big challenge here! But we are currently in a air conditioned cafe with the best connection we’ve had so far! Life is good.

Take care,

M.C

Road Trippin with my two favorite allies

So...I taught what essentially boils down to Sex Education (haha, me...teaching SexEd) and Life Skills Development to in-school youth, this past week, in the rural village of Sintet—about a three hour drive east of Fajara—in the Western Region of The Gambia. 

Saddled-up with my two favourite allies, Jerreh Manneh (NSGA drama trouper/workshop trainer) and Uncle Sanna Sanyang (NSGA driver), I spent three nights eating, bathing, socializing and sleeping as would your common Gambian villager. All the while, doing my best to impart a small nugget of knowledge to 30 students, grade 6 thru 9.

(*Note: in this group of grade 6 to 9ers, we had a young girl of 12 years, as well as a young man of 19 years...it is not uncommon to see a 16 year old in a grade 6 class)

Was this an experience? Yes. Was this an eye-opener? Yes. Do I now view the work being done by the NSGA in a different light? Yes. Was I glad to get back to my homestead in Old Jeshwang? Oh, yes!

Educating these youth about what we would view as common and universally accessible skills and attitudes about sex, STI’s, HIV/AIDS, as well as the development of critical thinking, problem solving and communication skills; proved to be a exercise in constant repetition, simplification (and re-simplification) of ideas and, at times, frustration at the inability of these students to grasp even the most basic of concepts. My whole view of education as a practice has been destabilized (which I consider a healthy and progressive phenomenon--Yeeeeeeees post-modernism) as I found myself having to adopt a whole new approach to my presentation methodology—i.e. abandon my favoured use of implicit messaging in favour of explicit direction. The concepts we were teaching (concepts fundamental to healthy living) were in some instances completely foreign to these teenagers, as were critical thinking and proper decision-making skills. The education needed to be basic...and at times I struggled with the simplicity. But, I’m learning...I'm learning.

Then it hit me: This is why the work done by the NSGA is no necessary. Not only is it important in any environment for youth to be knowledgeable about their bodies and about healthy living. But, health education and social empowerment is VITAL to the future of The Gambia. These kids NEED this opportunity. And, let me tell you, despite the lack of knowledge or ability to grasp it...these kids CRAVE the opportunity to learn. And, to witness that, is inspirational. Although they may still have a sharp learning curve to climb on the road to proper health and social awareness, these kids will come away with an immeasurably positive learning experience at the conclusion of the three-day session (Did I mention that Day 3 of the workshop was on a SATURDAY...yes, a SATURDAY...and they were all excited to be up early and at school).

No doubt, the learning that was afforded to them last week will lay the groundwork for future knowledge and leadership growth, giving them a better grasp of the concepts that were taught. With proper reinforcement and practice, these youth will develop into confident and intelligent citizens, ready to contribute to the health of the country. It is what it is: EDUCATION FOR SOCIAL CHANGE

Jerreh explaining a "trust" activity to workshop youth

***

The out-of-school experience, while on this trip, was also an EYE-OPENER for me, as I was privy to a whole new ritual of eating. Over the three days I ate two meals daily, which consisted of a communal bowl of corned beef and onions for breakfast (scooped up with a loaf of bread), Benechin (rice with some meat) or beef stew for lunch (eaten with bare hands—although I was graciously offered a spoon to feed). Similar to the experience of the youth in understanding the various health concepts, this process was completely foreign to me...and honestly, a tremendous experience. And, no longer will I ever consider my shower at the apartment temperamental. In fact, M.C. and I are quite fortunate to have a shower tap at all. For my three days on the road I “bathed” outdoors with the goats and chickens using a single bucket for the entire body. What I’ve come away with is this...we waste one hell of a lot of water taking showers back home. One bucket...it does the trick just fine.

And, above all, when your in the company of good people (my two favorite allies--Jerreh and Sanna) live is worth the living.

Eating with Uncle Sanna and our two Teacher Coordinators

***

Till next time folks...Don’t Stop Believin

Matty  

FYI: CRIBBAGE UPDATE: Matty leads 7-2

Matty Lives on...

Survived my first adventure into the bush this past week. It was an absolute EYE-OPENER and a unique experience to not only see, but to live as a rural Gambian villager. As M.C. said once we reconnected back in Fajara..."that...is not our reality." Truer words were never spoken.

I will fill everyone in on my adventure here soon, but I am running low on battery life and it's gettin on my bedtime. Early to sleep here on The Smiling Coast. Might slip in an episode of Dexter though before bed.

Tobasky is this this Wednesday, and we have been invited to our friend and colleague, Nuru's place for the Islamic feast and celebration. You can be assured a full post will come for that as well.

Spent a few hours at the beach again today...good waves.

Till next time...Don't Stop Believin.

Matty

We're gonna walk down to Kairaba Avenue...and then go on computer (you know the tune)

UPDATE: Had a big victory with the temperamental shower last night. Got home from the office at 6:15, grabbed a small snack, threw on my runners and headed out for a 5k jog. Got back went to the shower...no pressure. EEENNNNN, I said. Took a five minute break to stretch and have a drink of water, went back to the shower, and...YEEEES temperamental shower! Pressure. Oh the small victories in life.

UPDATE Con’t: Today...not so lucky. Whoomp whooooomp. (View bucket shower procedure--previous post). 

***

On Today’s edition of “The World According to Matty” >>> Kairaba Avenue

Kairaba Avenue is the main artery that dissects Fajara from West to East. And, as it has come to be, our one-stop shop for, well...everything.

Starting at the water’s edge, Kairaba Avenue is the primary route for visitors to the area, and locals alike, to take to the gorgeous, and seemingly endless, Fajara Beach (it keeps going, and going, and going, and...). From the beach heading east, the avenue is bursting with restaurants; small, medium and large, one “barber’s shop” (but many beauty salons), a soon-to-reopen night club, several travel agencies, fruit-stands and vendors, lunch counters (for what appears to be a local delicacy...the chicken and cheese sub), as well as the infamous bookshop Tim”book”too (insert laugh track here), which lies just off the street. As you pass the former NSGA office (recently vacated by my colleagues) you approach what I have come to revere as a national landmark of sorts in the The Gambia, “The Street Light” (More to come on “The Street Light” in a later post).

Crossing “The Street Light”, where Kairaba intersects with the coastal “highway”, we come upon more fruit & vegetable stands, a GALP gas station (air conditioned...yeeeeeeeees air conditioning), the Standard Chartered Bank ( air conditioned...insert Matty happy quote here), tailor shops, garment shops, appliance and electronics shops, Supermarkets—we’ve now frequented both Safeway and Harry’s and are still trying to decide where our allegiance will lie, cellular providers, restaurants with wireless internet (our early favourite being La Parisienne—Gelato, air conditioning, and seemingly always a European soccer match on the television, although the internet is hit and miss with our laptops) and so on, and so forth. Kairaba continues for a good clip, until you arrive at Westfield junction, where the avenue intersects and ends at the road into Banjul.

Essentially, Kairaba is the hub of action in our still to be explored neighborhood. The early issue, however, that has risen for M.C. and I, is that Kairaba is a half-hour walk from our apartment in Old Jeshwang. Now, I know that isn’t far and I’m not looking for sympathy. I can handle the walk. But, a half-hour walk in the presence of the “Heat Monster” scares Matty into a sweaty mess. If absolutely necessary, there are cabs aplenty constantly roaming the highway to Kairaba that we stroll—which intersects where???...that’s right, at “tThe Street Light”—and they are supposed to charge us no more than 5 Dalasi (20 cents) for the trip. What more often than not happens, however, is that M.C. and I are caught bargaining down from 50 Dalasi with the cabbie, to take us for 25 Dalasi total (approx. $1). Again, I’m not looking for sympathy.

Our normal routine has involved finishing work for the day, heading home for a quick bite and some exercise, and then taking the trek into Kairaba for some personal time on the internet (only every second or third day though). We’re doing our best to stay in touch with those at home to keep you all updated on our adventure here on The Smiling Coast.

Until next time, Don’t Stop Believin,

Matty

***

FYI: M.C. and I head out on our first roadie here in The Gambia on Thursday. We are off respectively to the CRR (Central River Region) and URR (Upper River Region)—deep into the country, to help deliver HIV/AIDS & Life Skills workshops to community youth groups as part of the NSGA mandate (More to come on the work of the NSGA upon our return from “the field”).

Temperamental Shower

URGENT UPDATE: It’s remains very HOT!!

...and we did our first beach day yesterday...beeeeeeauty!

***

So, I’m sure this comes as no surprise to any of you, but the daily routine here in The Gambia differs from that which we are used to back in Canada. “Well Duh! Thanks for the wonderful insight, Matt”...is what I’m sure you are all saying. Give me a minute to elaborate, please.

Most of us, back home, don’t put much thought into our morning routine; waking up, putting on a pot of coffee, and stepping into the shower. Now, yes...I knew that there wouldn’t be Sportscentre with Jay and Dan or the “Top 10” to start my day. And, yes...I knew that coffee would consist of boiling a pot of water and adding Nescafe (‘Gold’, mind you...it’s really not that bad). But, I have to admit, even I was startled as I awoke Wednesday morning—having not showered since leaving Fredericton at 6am Monday, to finally cleanse myself of all that film of travel that just sticks to you—to find only a tiny stream of water vacating the shower tap as I turned the knob.

You see, here, we are fortunate enough to be fully equipped with a well-sized bathroom, replete with toilet and sink that would be recognizable back home, as well as a stand shower (although just an open area in the corner of the bathroom). However, what we didn’t consider upon arrival is that the water pressure (while seemingly always present at least a little) fluctuates depending on the time of day. While we can always brush our teeth and wash dishes, the pressure is not strong enough to take a proper shower in the morning.

“Ah...M.C.” I said, “How did you get this thing to work last night?” (she having been smart enough to shower once we settled in, Tuesday night). After some jiggling (of the shower knobs) to no avail, off to work I went for the first day. Getting home at the end of the day, I was intent, once again, on a refresh and a de-stink. Again, to no avail. Ohhhhh, I thought, this is why we purchased these buckets.

THE BUCKET SHOWER PROCESS:

-          Turn shower knob on – Small stream of water exits bottom tap

-          Place Bucket the first under stream

-          Lather

-          Take Bucket the first (two inches full of water) and douse oneself

-          Meanwhile, Bucket the second is placed under water stream

-          Bend over to place head under bottom tap for extra dousing

-          When Bucket the second in two inches full, remove and douse

-          Meanwhile, Bucket the first is placed back under water stream

-          Continue until desired cleanliness is reached

And, so it was that we came to know that morning showers, and in all likelihood afternoon showers, are bucket showers. Since Wednesday, we have come to realize that after dark (past 7:30pm) we are able to shower as anyone back at home would. And the routine is set accordingly...exercise happens in the evenings. Showering happens before bed. Mornings are for teeth brushing, deodorant applying and cob-web shaking.

From The Smiling Coast...Until next time, Don’t Stop Believin

Matty

***

CRIBBAGE UPDATE: 5-2 lead for yours truly

Welcome to the Smiling Coast...c'est chaud

So, we made it! And, finally made it to the internet...well internet that didn't cut out before I got the chance to sit down and write (I did manage to read the 100+ emails, last night, circulated by the Wanderers boys, and then abruptly had the internet cut out at La Parisienne).

So, this Friday evening, as I enjoy a JulBrew (Gambia's finest), I send you all my best regards and assure you that I have not spared a single bead of sweat since landing down at Banjul International Airport Tuesday at 6pm. Yep...it's hot, c'est chaud! The apartment that M.C. and I have so lovingly been installed in by our Gambians friends is wonderful, lots of space to sleep, relax, and even a kitchen to cook and keep our food refrigerated...but there is no escape from the heat monster (which I have just now named). We've got three fans rolling at full blast when we are home and still, I'm wiping my forehead constantly and hanging clothes out to air at any opportunity. It's hot. It didn't, however, stop this engine from tying up the jogging shoes and taking to the streets late this afternoon to give the bod a little shock treatment. I survived.

I suppose I should just clarify a little, our location here in The Gambia. We are not actually in Banjul, we are southwest about a 15 minute trip from Banjul in Fajara/Serrakunda...key thing...it's closer to the beach. We are on the coast, and from our front door, it is about a 40 minute walk to the accessible area of the beach...and IT IS STUNNING...and hot. The name of our neighborhood proper is Old Jeshwang, a cozy little hood rife with the schools, the market (right across from our place) and a juvenile prison. It bustles by day, but by night, the trusty L.L. Bean headlamp comes on as the place goes dark (but you can see the stars, which is great). Most important of all, MOM and DAD, it is safe. We take the "highway" in towards the office or towards Kairaba avenue (where I am right now), which is the main business road in Fajara. Kairaba runs from the ocean for a good clip, and it full of restaurants, supermarkets, clothing stores, cellular providers and really the whole gamut.

As you can all see, I am a bit scatter brained at the moment, as this is really the first opportunity I have had to connect to the world back home...and it is overwhelming. The things we sometimes take for granted...

As time passes and M.C. and I get better settled I will give you a better idea of what life here in The Gambia is like. Lots to talk about: Toubasky(?), bucket showers, "The Street Light", the NSGA, and much much more.

For now, I'll leave you all with this: we are safe and sound, happy and healthy...and smiling...I mean, this is the Smiling Coast :)

Till next time, Don't Stop Believin! 

Matty

Yeeeeeeees Colombia!

No, no, no, I've not up and changed my travel plans in the middle of the night and taken for the South American country. Rather, I'm sitting here in Newark Liberty Airport in, wait for it...NEW JERRRRRSEY (spoken as Fred Armisen of SNL imitating outgoing NY Governor, David Patterson) sipping on a hot cup of Colombia's own Juan Valdez coffee.

For those of you who don't know, I recently returned from a vacation in Colombia and was completely wooed by the sweet nectar of a rich Colombian roast.

Couldn't think of any better way to cure a flight delay (hey that rhymes) while we wait for our leg to Belgium.

Talk to you all soon, but until then Don't Stop Believin.

***

FYI - My travel partner M.C. and I began what is sure to be an epic best out of 101 games of Cribbage by splitting the opening two games over a beverage and bite when we first landed in NJ. I will be sure to keep you all updated on the progress of this match.

Tomorrow...we fly

Hello one and all (perhaps just one or two at this point, but hoping that a fan base will soon form), my name is Matty and I am headed to The Gambia...TOMORROW!!

Yes, I'm off to the tiny West African country for 20 weeks to partake in the wonderful work being done by a partnership of Gambians and Canadians, who use peer education and health promotion as a vehicle for youth empowerment, and ultimately, social change. The Nova Scotia-Gambia Association has been in existence for over 20 years, now operating out of both Halifax, Nova Scotia, and Banjul, The Gambia, providing opportunities for youth, students and professionals in The Gambia to affect positive results for their communities. And, I get to be a part of this!

Exactly what this work looks like...well, I don't know. Exactly what my 20 weeks has in store for me...well, I can't say. Exactly why The Gambia is known as "The" Gambia...well, I'm not sure. But, I'm determined to find   out. And, through this medium, I hope to share my experience with friends, family, well-wishers, and others back in Canada.

You know what else, I'm lucky enough to be headed over with a young professional from Prince Edward Island who is sure to keep me in check and grounded while away. I will let her introduce herself to you all soon. But for now I'm off to double-check that I've adequately prepared myself for this...this...adventure.

***

FYI - Matty's flight itinerary for tomorrow/Tuesday:

Lunchtime flight - Halifax to Newark -- Overnight flight - Newark to Brussels, Belgium -- Mid-day flight - Brussels to Banjul (with pit-stop in Dakar, Senegal). All in all, we leave 12:45pm Monday from Halifax and arrive 6:30pm Tuesday in The Gambia.

I've got my reads: Bel Canto & The Girl who played with Fire; my new crossword-puzzle book (hard cover); and my IPod stacked with tunes of all assort.

Send me on my way...Will soon touch base once set up and online in Banjul. Until then, Don't Stop Believin.

Best,

Matty