The Fredericton Wanderers of Brikama

The soccer (football) season back home is fast approaching, and this past weekend I proved to myself that I'm about two-months away from game fitness...luckily the season starts in exactly two months.

I was invited to the bustling hub of Brikama (really the centre of action on the West Coast of The Gambia...think Truro...or better, don't ever think of Truro...think instead of Moncton)--all traffic seems to run through Brikama--to join my former NSGA colleague and good friend, Jerreh Manneh to play with his senior men's team in a "test match" against a local academy team. Me, old legs, out of practice, unfit, out on the field with a group of nimble and tough 20-25 year olds, squaring off against Team "Two-a-days" (in the form of this youth academy--no joke, these kids practice for upwards of 5 hours daily). And get this...Jerreh plugs me into the central midfield!! Luckily a three man midfield and tells me to just hang in the middle of the field and hold things up..."Yessir" I say, the less running the better.

And so we played...on the FIFA installed field turf that bears little more than two years of wear and tear. (From what I've been able to discern...there are three grass fields and the one turf field in The Gambia...the rest is dust and dirt my friends).

It was spectacular. A real soccer (football) game, on real fake turf, with two real teams, with a real-ish referee...and I made it through the whole first half...barely. These kids can run...and run...and run...and run. And, I cannot.

But we managed to pull out the 2-1 victory, and all and all, I thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to get out and have a good run on the field.

Here comes the kicker (see what I did there)...my club team back home, the Fredericton Wanderers has been looking to partner with a Gambian club, association, group of teams, etc. for the past several weeks. When I told Jerreh of my idea to partner with his team and provide a sense of goodwill through football across the pond, the boys immediately took to the idea and OFFICIALLY changed the name of their team to: The Fredericton Wanderers of Brikama. I left them with a football and a nominal sum of cash as starter money for their upcoming season and promised to develop a close relationship between our two teams...something that we can use to promote global friendship through sport.

The Fredericton Wanderers of Brikama

I can't wait now to get home, get fit, and get out on the real fake turf to start the season.

Until Next Time...Don't Stop Believin,

Matty

Words of Wisdom

The Point is a Gambian newspaper. Here you will find an article that quotes a certain Mr. Decourcey (I'll forgive the lower case "c" in this instance, because...other than that, the guy got my name right...and that doesn't happen often in Canada, let alone The Gambia).

You'll notice, I'm quoted as if I am THE definitive word on Malaria.

...Well, maybe I am.

I'm home in less than three weeks. See yas all soon.

Till Next Time...Don't Stop Believin,

Matty

Better late than never

Yes, I know I've been absent from the blogishpere for a long while now...(not the first time such has happened--#CanadaTwentyTen), but below really sums up why I am where I am, doing what I do.

***

Acting to Action – Education for Social Change

Drama is a way of life for youth in The Gambia.

For this expressive people, the evocation of joy and sorrow, happiness and sadness, laughter and community extends routinely from day-to-day life onto the stage in impressive fashion. Today, young people along “The Smiling Coast” are leading the charge as actors for social change. They also continue to demonstrate their flare for the dramatic, as actors…on stage.

On January 29^th, 130 students from junior and senior high schools across The Gambia gathered in the coastal centre of Fajara to compete in the Annual Inter-School Drama Competition, hosted by the Nova Scotia-Gambia Association (NSGA). The event was a platform for the schools’ Peer Health Education teams to showcase their theatrical talents and educate the over 500 in attendance about the life skills necessary to combat the spread of HIV/AIDS in The Gambia. Drama performances from 15 teams headlined the night, while a junior high quiz contest and impromptu speech competition for senior students rounded out the evening affair.        

The event capped off a campaign undertaken by the NSGA, in partnership with Action Aid International-The Gambia that saw Peer Health Educators in- and out of school trained in all regions. These collaborative and interactive workshops, delivered by NSGA trainers and drama troupers, focused on “Life Skills” as they relate to the spread of HIV/AIDS and other STIs, puberty and reproductive health.

In fact, the NSGA has a rich history of cultivating dynamic young leaders to serve as role models and agents of change. For over 20 years, the NSGA has partnered with school and community groups, to deliver valuable educational messages through their Peer Health Education (PHE) teams. The PHE model, which empowers youth to “learn and teach others” has helped develop the critical-thinking capacity and self-confidence of Gambian youth from Basse to Banjul. The use of dramatic techniques and innovative presentation methods has, from the start, been a vital component of how the organization fosters youth leadership in the West African nation.

Canadian contribution

Since their November arrival in Banjul, CIDA interns, Mary Catherine (M.C.) Connolly and Matt DeCourcey have been part and parcel of the front-line work being done by the NSGA in and out of schools throughout The Gambia. A registered nurse and native of Charlottetown, PEI, Connolly has put her intimate knowledge of health issues and her passion for helping others to good use in facilitating workshops in various regions. DeCourcey, a native of Fredericton, NB, with a background in community-development and communications, has been influential in providing new ideas on leadership development and communication education to his Gambian colleagues and PHE teams. In their first three months in-country, these two have been directly involved in the education and coaching of over 300 young people throughout The Gambia. They have also contributed to various public engagement activities of the NSGA.

As a partnership of Canadians and West Africans, the NSGA has made its mark on the development of human capital and international citizenship. Working hand-in-hand, Canadians and Gambians have been, are, and will continue to create opportunities for young people in The Gambia to reach their full potential as educated and active members of society. And, the youth continue to pay the NSGA back in-kind with active and educational performances on the stage.  

Through action on the ground, and acting on stage, the NSGA continues to educate for social change. 

Take a peek here

For all those wondering what is happening this weekend in The Gambia, take a peek here

For all those wondering how my mother has gotten along over the past two weeks here in The Gambia, take a peek here

And, for the rest of you...check back later.

Adios!

And, Until Next Time...Don't Stop Believin,

Matty

Actinnnngggg!! (in a Jon Lovitz voice)

Oh, it's back to the office this Monday morning, and myself, M.C. and my mom (god bless her soul) are busy preparing for both our inevitable return to the field in February, as well as the upcoming NSGA National Drama Competition this Saturday evening. (*Right now mom is putting her teacherly printing skills to work preparing flip-charts to be used on NSGA's various training sessions...everyone is very impressed with her penmanship.)

This coming Saturday, 15 Upper Basic (middle/junior high) and Senior Secondary (high) schools from all over the country (east to west) will arrive here in Fajara to compete against one another for the NSGA National Drama crown. As we've been made to be aware over the past few weeks, these schools take these competitions very SERIOUSLY. No Peer Health Education/Drama team dares show up with wrinky-dinky presentation, nor without their game faces on. (I'm sure that your Rex Ryan's of the world would find this event a prime chance to run their mouths at the competition...but I digress and must let my ire over my Patriots loss last week go to rest for the year) These "dramas" will be a showcase of the intervention that myself and my colleagues have had in the various schools pertaining to HIV/AIDS and Life Skills education over the past months.

And so, we are busy preparing questions and scenarios for the Quiz and Impromptu Speech components, that will accompany the Drama piece...Yes, the NSGA goes all out for these things. I have no doubt it will be a late night.

***
Just a reminder that my mother (the guest blogger) has taken up my mantle over the past week, and continues to offer her insights on her African Adventure at http://gardencreek.nbed.nb.ca/teacher/mrs-decourcey Check it out, and humor her a bit.

Until Next Time...Don't Stop Believin,

Matty

Freeloading

Yea...I know...no blog posts from Matt this week. Well, I got sick ok! And, my mom is here to boot...so I'm freeloading, er...tour-guiding...and anyways, my mom is doing the blog work for me. To check out her take of her visit to The Smiling Coast check out her teacher page on Garden Creek Elementary School at:
http://gardencreek.nbed.nb.ca/teacher/mrs-decourcey

Enjoy one and all...

And Until Next Time...Don't Stop Believin,

Matty

If it's Friday, it must be Belgium

Thought I would pass along an e-mail I just received from my mother, who is in the midst of a round-about journey to visit me. She sent this to me, along with my father, sister and several close family friends back home...I'm eager to see what type of mood she'll be in when she finally lands here.

***

If It Friday, it must be Belgium.

Hello!

Believe me when I say there are no direct flights in life...

After a lovely summer-like drive to Portland the excitement began. No getting out on Wednesday as planned. Best option was another night at the lovely Comfort Inn while the blizzard closed down EVERYTHING in Portland... (even heard LL Bean closed!)
Thursday I took the 5:00 bus to Boston and flew to Chicago, waited there all day and flew to Brussels overnight where I am once again waiting here all day... I fly to Casablanca at 5:00 then on to Banjul. Hope to see Matt shortly after midnight.


Hope you are all well. Can't wait to change clothes and stop hauling my loaded knapsack around. great reminder to travel light. Should have lots more room to put stuff in my suitcase on the way home.

Stay tuned!

Dawn

***

And Until Next Time...Don't Stop Believin,

Matty

Twoonies from Toubabs

Hey all, 

Beautiful winter day here along The Smiling Coast...hard to fathom (having been absent for over 10 weeks now) that a winter storm has delayed my mother's arrival for today...but fear not, she will arrive merely a day late, and the weekend will be saved for resting and re-cooping energy...on the beach.

***

But enough with underhanded slap to the face of those in the midst of blustery winter weather...the below story should warm your hearts...a little.

VALENTINE CARDS IN SUPPORT OF THE LOVE OF EDUCATION IN WEST AFRICA

Jakob Conrad is nine years old and already thinking about ways that he can “make a difference”. 

When he told his mom that going with her to The Gambia on his February break would be “like a dream come true”, she was convinced that he was ready for this trip of a lifetime. Knowing that he would come away from this experience with an enriched perspective on life and a lifetime of new friends, they talked about how he could give something in return. Jakob decided that he would raise money for the Nova Scotia Gambia Association (NSGA) by establishing a fundraising organization of his own. He wanted 100% of the proceeds from his fundraising to support the NSGA, and education in The Gambia in particular.

For 25 years, the NSGA has allowed West Africans and Canadians partner and build healthy communities in The Gambia. Through education and health promotion initiatives, NSGA staff and volunteers have become a major force in youth education and community development in West Africa. 

Jakob named his organization Twoonies from Toubabs.  In The Gambia, foreigners are pleasantly referred to as “Toubabs”. When Jakob heard this, he thought that he might be able to make things and sell them for a “Twoonie”, coining the clever and catchy phrase. His first project is a Valentine Card sale. He decided that since he will arrive in The Gambia on Valentine’s Day, this was the perfect first project for his new organization. He crafted 4 designs, and selected 4 photographs that were taken by SMU student Oliver Woods in The Gambia in December 2010. 

2000 cards have been printed, with the printing donated by Minuteman Press Halifax. The cards are selling for $2 each or 8 for $10. These can be purchased by contacting the NSGA office. He has set a goal of $2000.00. Please help him meet and surpass this target! You can learn more information and see the cards at: www.wix.com/toubabs/twoonies

To talk to Jakob or his mom about this initiative, please e-mail: exec.director@novascotiagambia.ca

*To learn more about the NSGA, go to: http://www.novascotiagambia.ca/

Just one example of how Canadians and West Africans are partnering for social change. And, hey...if you need to tell someone you love them on February 14th, Jakob's got you covered. 

So visit Jakob's site...and partner with the NSGA...for social change.

***

Until Next Time...Don't Stop Believin,

Matty

Discovering Girl Talk

Quiet Day in Office, means headphones on, Girl Talk in the ears All Day (sorry for those confused...but I'm sure many more of you know what I'm talking about), and work getting done.

For those interested, I have new pics up--those from December, minus the camera-stolen-pics taken in Dakar--for viewing pleasures. My picks are found here on flickr, or my facebook page.

Also, big news for me, as my mother leaves from Fredericton today to make the trek across the pond to visit her little boy. Mom arrives Thursday, and I'm deep in contemplation on what and where we shall visit first thing over her first weekend along The Smiling Coast. Stay tuned one and all.

Till Next Time...Don't Stop Believin,


Matty

Back to life...Back to reality

...well...perhaps a different reality. But, we are back to it here along The Smiling Coast, and our remaining time looks to be busy and action-packed. However, today I’ve given myself time to write.

Happy New Year, I guess would be the appropriate opening to a first blog post of the New Year. So yes, Happy New Year to one-and-all. And safe journey back to your own realities for those who spent the holiday abroad...like us.

That’s right; we went abroad for the holidays. To Dakar to be exact. From the 26^th to the 31^st to be exact. And, there will be no pictures because M.C.’s camera was stolen...to be exact.

Yes, sadly for friends, family, followers, and most importantly us, there will be no record of two Canadian’s four-day sojourn in the Senegalese Capital. So, you’ll just have to take my word for it.

Here goes:

After a lovely two-plus hour Christmas Eve mass (with incredible Christmas Carol singing from the choir) at the Catholic Church just a 15-minute stroll from our compound doors we settled in for Christmas Day witnessing the “haunting” or “masquerades” in Banjul, or as I like to call them, “the mob of slapping of little sticks, beating of drum, while one guy blows a whistle incessantly, while another guy in a scary-ish mask and outfit a la potato sack, dances around in the street”. With a couple hours in Banjul, we returned to Old Jeshwang for a nap, and then a lovely prepared Christmas Dinner of Chicken Yassa (local stew), brought to us by our colleague Abbie Barrow. Then off to bed for a 6am wake-up and journey to Dakar.

We were up and out the door at 6:15am. Quick walk to the main road and a van into town to the ferry by 7am. Across the ferry and in a taxi to the border...all seamless. We got to the border and got stamped. Sat and had breakfast before walking through the border...or as I will refer to it, the border-ish. Hopped on a little crotch rocket to take us to the car park, where we made our first mistake. Instead of hoping on the $15 “sept-places” (seven-seat station wagon) to take us the rest of the trip, we opted for the more spacious and less expensive ($8) bus that was virtually empty when we hopped on. There we sat for the next two-hours waiting for the once empty bus to fill itself to the brim. Shortly after 11am we were off...like a herd of turtles. Literally we got out of the cark park, and then parked...again...for ten minutes while the driver had the bus tires pumped up (something that couldn’t have conceivably been done in the preceding two-hours). Again we took to the road, for about 25 minutes, where we were stopped by Senegalese military/police/security officials to have the ENTIRE bus unloaded, all the luggage taken off the roof, all the passengers out, while we were searched for...sugar??? Or so I was told by a young lady sitting on the bus beside me. I’ll spare the rest of the details, but a good 1000 or so GINORMOUS pot-holes later, we arrived in Dakar as the sun was setting and were taxied to our quaint, yet amenable little auberge. We’re talkin comfy beds, CNN on the television and a beday in the washroom, type of quaint, yet amenable little.

All-in-all, Dakar is just big. Well big when you’ve been living in the sticks for two-months...and it’s still very much Africa. We spent a lot of time walking about, exploring...with no real agenda in mind. Dusty streets, marketeer-filled markets, shop-lined roads fill much of the upper neighbourhoods of Dakar as we walked southwest to the coast. Then...all of a sudden, WHAMMO!! (Pierre Mcguire alert) we were walking on broad, paved avenues, with multiple (6-7 floors) storied structures, tree lined roads and coffee shops (a la home) all around. Central Dakar is built like a North American or European city. Quite the shock to stumble upon, really...and for a while, quite a novel feeling.

While I could stammer on and on about this and that in Dakar, it would serve my time on the blog best to highlight the...ah...highlight of the trip. That, being our visit to Ile Goree. Ile Goree, a UNESCO World Heritage Site is a tiny little island just off the Southeast coast of Dakar that once upon a time served as a primary hub of West African slave trade activities. As it was explained to us, Goree is where captured (soon-to-be) slaves from throughout Africa were brought and housed (for those who have read The Book of Negroes you will be able to picture the scene) until they were auctioned off to their wealthy captures and then taken across the Atlantic to assume their fate. The history of the place is sobering...as is the feeling you get walking through the rusted and faded houses and structures that line the rocky beach, or as you pass to the top of the hill among numerous artisans all selling their (overpriced) lovely paintings of African motif. My favourite part of the day you ask...sitting on the beach enjoying a couple of the local brew (big surprise). Visiting Ile Goree is probably the most regrettable part about losing M.C.’s camera...we had taken so many breath-taking pics of the scenery...much in the backdrop of a setting sun.

Word of advice to anyone traveling to West Africa, go to Ile Goree, and take your overnight bags with you to stay the night. We didn’t, but were assured that had we, we would have been welcomed into any number of guesthouses on the quaint little piece of paradise.

We took the ferry back to Dakar, giddy and thrilled to have visited such a stunning place just as the night time air rolled in...and then the camera was stolen...and that about all I have to say about that.

Several more days in Dakar, with a visit to their 21^st Century “Sea Plaza” a chic little mall, with Big-Ball Bowling Alley and arcade that sits directly on the water, some marketing, and an evening taking in a local musician at the World Black Arts and Culture festival—sidenote, there was no word of a lie several hundred thousand people at said concert, and it took us over 20 minutes of shoving and ducking and diving to escape from the central area where the concert was held (Obama inauguration had nothing on this thing).  

Our trip home was much smoother, though not any comfier, as we snuggled into a sept-place at 7am to slalom in and around the crater-sized pot holes on the highway back to the border. Some unnecessary snooping by the drug patrol at the border later, we were on our way to the ferry back to Banjul, some unnecessary snooping by the immigration official at the ferry later we were in a cab back to our little Old Jeshwang with several hours to rest up before our big night out on the town to celebrate the New Year.

And a big celebration it was. We passed the New Year at the house of a U.S. foreign service official along with some 40 other ex-pats, including our new Canadian (3) and British (2) friends, and then headed into the touristy, bar area of Senegambia to party like it’s 2011 until the wee hours of the morning.

And so it is that after a whole week of work, a little trip up-country with our ex-pat amigos to visit our British friend who volunteers in the large hospital in the village of Bwiam (just this past weekend) that I find myself with a moment to update my friends, family, well-wishers, followers, and other nosy persons, who find time themselves to patronize my self-indulgent nature by reading this blog.

Holidays were great! Being back to work is wonderful as well. And as I realized last night, we are now just over 10 weeks into our adventure here on The Smiling Coast, and just under 10 weeks away from our return to Canada...where we will really be back to life...and back to reality.

Until Next Time...Don’t Stop Believin.

Matty

***

FYI: Cribbage Update – After, for some unconceivable reason, falling behind M.C. by a score of 27-20, the kid has been on a tremendous pegging streak, regaining the lead to the point where our best out of 101 battle 

stands at 29-27 for Matty.

Merry Christmas from The Smiling Coast

Merry Christmas and other such holiday greetings!!

Christmas Eve Sunset on The Smiling Coast

Just back from a lovely Christmas Eve mass in our fair Old Jeshwang, and want to wish each and every one of you a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

Till we connect again in 2011...This is Matty In The Gambia reminding you...Don't Stop Believin!!

Crocodile Rock and other WHAT's up

Yo, Yo...Ho, Ho!! 

It has been a rather relaxing, yet adventurous week here in West Africa, as M.C. and I have taken to exploring many of what were the “yet-to-be gotten to areas” of our (not-so) new (anymore) home. As most of you back home are only now settling in for your holiday activities—it being Christmas Eve Eve today, undoubtedly the best day of the year—we have been, in fact, enjoying the first of our two-weeks break from work (as the NSGA headquarters has shut down, and field work ceased for the holidays). So, it has been that we’ve enjoyed (as always) a few days lazily moping about the hammocks beach-side at our favourite Ex-Pat restaurant and bar, Leybato’s...book in hand (I’m on to Dickens now—Great Expectations). But, also during the week, you would have found us taking advantage of our free days by hoping on the trusty pedal bikes to meander the maze of streets, alleys, and “highways” that make up our corner of the world and get to the sites we had yet to visit.

Here’s a taste of WHAT has been up.

First of all, I would be remiss if I were not to mention our fantastic and successful Canadian Christmas Party, hosted at the Old Jeshwang homestead this past Saturday evening. We were joined by a dozen of our colleagues, as well as several other friends and neighbours for Christmas music and treats, a Crazy Eights (Crazy Eights rules in The Gambia turning the game into Crazier Eights...more to come on this later) tourney, several rousing games of Scrabble, and last but not least a most-enjoyed-by-all Yankee Swap, in which I came away with a box of the most delicious chocolate filled cookies. Mmmmm dericious! 

No, it was a different evening from the Christmas parties we are used to back home, but being surrounded by friends in happy and high spirits isn’t, in fact, all that different from what we really aspire to at this time of year anyways...is it? And, furthermore, it felt nice to not only be able to celebrate the season in some manner, but to also include our friends here in The Gambia. Friends, who have gone out of their way to make us feel comfortable and at home in our now 7+ weeks here. 

Canadian Christmas Party = Success!

Sunday...was a beach day...all day. Sun...shine...cards...book...music...waves...walk...and...JulBrew.

Monday, I shook hands with a Crocodile. Literally.

Kachakally Crocodile Pond is a mere 10-15 minute bike-ride from our apartment, towards the water in Bakau. After zigzagging through the innards of Bakau, a nice little adventure in itself, we arrived at the Pond/Bakau Museum entrance. Before getting to the crocodiles, you walk through the museum—three huts dedicated to the history of Bakau. The first hut is dedicated to the ceremonial past of Bakau...namely the ceremonial practice of circumcision...male and female. Literally, there are over a dozen pictures and descriptions of a young man or women, fresh from the scissors. And yet, after being here for 7+ weeks and having been privy to the rather candid discussion that takes place among people here regarding these practices, neither of us was all that phased with the idea that a museum would pay homage to such. Hut number two displayed various musical instruments and the role of music throughout the ages in Bakau. The third hut was a depiction of the role played by Gambian soldiers in the two world wars. I was, in fact, quite surprised to learn about the impact that West Africans had in the allied efforts.

After spending 20-or-so minutes museuming...we wandered the path through the trees...BIG trees. Seriously, you gotta see these things until we were...wait a minute...is that...wait, that is. Holy crap! That’s a crocodile...no, it’s not a real...yes it is! That’s a crocodile...right in front of us. 

As M.C. said, could you imagine if you came with little kids who ran ahead and all of a sudden tripped over Gus the crocodile laying there...mouth wide-open, cooling in the shade.

There’s no warning...no friendly reminder that you’re nearing your new reptilian friends. You basically round the corner and are face-to-face with over 80 crocodiles; a little unnerving at first. But, then we realized that these guys are so lethargic, so drugged up—I said to the guy tending the shop “They must be drugged up, right?” He said, “No, just herbs and natural medicines.” To which I said, “Yea, that’s drugs.”...with a smile—that they really pose no threat at all. The guy also explained that they do not eat human flesh and that I should shake hands with one of them. “No, that’s alright,” I said. He insisted. I relented” (And the above pic is proof...

(And as a wise-ish man once said “A proof is a proof. And when you have a proof, that’s a proof”, or something to that effect).

Tuesday was the best beach day of the year so far. The waves were money. The sun was great. And, there was a lovely breeze that swept along the coast. Furthermore, we met up with two new Canadian friends Tuesday evening for dinner on the beach. Emma and Paul had just arrived to undertake, like ourselves, a five-month CIDA internship here in The Gambia. Oh how nice it was to sit down and commiserate with folks from home.  It was lovely evening...and to top it off, I found a nice little spot to enjoy JulBrew on tap on our way back to Old Jeshwang.

Wednesday, yesterday, was a particularly special day here in The Gambia as we were invited by our new friends from the U.S. Peace Corps to join them for lunch and Christmas cookies...and Wii, at the U.S. Embassy house that one of the girls was briefly staying at.

First thing in the morning, however, we hoped on the bikes and made our way to the Serrekunda Market, a labyrinth of epic proportions, where showering pre-visit is wasted water. We walked for an hour, through the vegetables and fish (with a large order of flies on the side), the clothing, and the little trinkets that make up a market before we decided that was had had a good first visit and decided to head cross-country (exploring a new area—Koto) towards Senegambia to meet up with our U.S. friends. We arrived at the Embassy mansion and enjoyed a lovely hamburger pie with Christmas Carols playing in the background, a couple games of Wii tennis and made peanut-butter cookies with caramel centres which tasted great, all the while enjoying the air conditioned reprieve from the world around us. I could have mistaken myself for being back home, but then realized that I, or no one I know, has a place that nice back home.

Last night, we put the Muppet Family Christmas on (you know that old one where all the Muppet, Sesame Street, and Fraggle characters are at Fozzy Bear’s mother country home for Christmas and the Swedish Chef tries to cook Big Bird...gobbly gobbly humongor!) and really got into the spirit...er spirits...

So, yea...it’s been a great week. Sunset on the beach this evening another treat. Tomorrow will most likely be a beach day. Saturday, Christmas Day, we have been invited to Banjul by our colleague Nuru to a barbeque and to enjoy the “Masquerades” that take place throughout the city. Sunday, we will adventurously take to the road and travel cross-border to Dakar, Senegal for 5-or-so days. We are told that when all goes smoothly, it is a 6-hour trip, but to be prepared for the worst travel day of our lives. I’m sure it will all be worth it though to experience what is supposed to be a diverse and lively city...And, since we parlez-vous, we’ve been assured that getting about the city will be relatively easy.

So...although scrambled and speed-written, that is the WHAT of what has been up over the past week-ish here in The Gambia.

I trust all is well across the world for each and every one of you. Best wishes for the holiday season from Matty In The Gambia! And, be in touch. I’ll be in touch once returned from Senegal next week.

Till Next Time...Don’t Stop Believin,

Matty

And so it goes...

Wow...just like that it’s been a whole week (again) since I’ve last touched base with all my fans (appropriate to refer to all as such?). But, as quick as time must seem to fly for all those combating the quickly coming holiday season, we here on The Smiling Coast are also caught up in the swift swirl of time as it flies by...as pleasantly as the newly arrived winter breeze, I must add. Yes, the winter weather here in The Gambia is the tits! (M.C. says I can use that word) I awake in the mornings not sweaty, bike to work only mildly sweaty upon arrival, and spend my evenings enjoying the pleasant and non-insufferable winter nights.

I spent much of the last week taking a daily transit (an adventure on its own) in to our fare capital city of Banjul—a fifteen to twenty minute sojourn—to aide my fellow colleague, Yankouba Bojang (NSGA Drama Touper) conduct two Malaria prevention & Behaviour Change Communication workshops with both high school and middle school aged students. Having not ever been threatened by malaria, nor educated the littlest bit about the parasite, I was at first unsure of what my contribution to these seminars would be...until we got to the communication piece and I found my opening.

Persuasion, rhetoric, energizers and games...these are my bag, and though needing to be simplified for young minds, I was able to impart some knowledge of the Ethos, Pathos and Logos needed to convince others that sleeping under an insecticide-treated bed-net is the best way to prevent the spread of malaria throughout West Africa.

***

So, now we are on our two-week holiday, while the office here closes for Christmas. Yes, we live in an overwhelmingly predominant Muslim country, but still there exists a flavour of Christmas. And, we are assured, there is lots of fun to be had both on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day—with masquerades aplenty in Banjul.

Oh yea, we (well...mostly M.C.) are hosting a Christmas Party this evening (I’m just along for my youthful good looks and wit) at our pad in Old Jeshwang for our friends, colleagues and neighbours. We are even going to try a Yankee Swap...which reminds me...I have yet to pick up a small gift. Hmmmm, best be getting on to that.

In the meantime everyone, I will endeavour to get back to this blog in short order with a report from our party and an update on our holiday happenings.

Also, I need to redeem myself in our Cribbage epic. After stretching out to a 20-11 lead, I now (after three skunks and a 9-game losing streak) find myself down 23-20...eeek. Time to turn things around.

Until Next Time...Don’t Stop Believin,

Matty 

Pics

I know it's been a long-time coming...but I was finally able to upload pictures from our first month here in The Gambia.

For those of you keeping score at home, we have been here just over 5 weeks now. That's 1/4 of our journey in the books...now those books are up on flickr, here

Enjoy!

Till Next Time...Don't Stop Believin.

Matty

Apples and Bananas - A story of Principle

Some people may say that I’m stubborn...

But I prefer to call myself...well...principled.

But, let’s just be honest. This “principle” I speak of, is really just my way to rationalize stubbornness in my own head.

To make a long-story short...I got out- “principled” last night.

And so the story goes:

The power was out in Old Jeshwang as I returned to the pad around 7pm from a good little workout at the gym-ish just down the road. With no food in the apartment, and no power to enjoy the cool and steady breeze of the fan, M.C. and I decided that the timing would be perfect to hop on the trusty ole’ pedal-bikes and head down to Kairaba Avenue to the “super-market” and fruit & vegetable vendors.

No issues at the super-market, as we left with our usual supply of yogurt, muesli, orange juice, bread, cookies, spaghetti, sauce, chick peas, kidney beans, and coffee (yeeeeeeeeees Nescafe Classic).

Now onto the fruit and vegetable vendors to haggle over apples and bananas...and tomatoes and cucumber, should our mood insight the purchase...we never even got to the vegetable conversation.

First stop was with our buddy (not our buddy) who situates himself just beside the super-market...Bananas: 40 Dalasis for 1kg...not too bad...manageable at the very least for bananas that look like they could at least withstand two-days of heat before falling to pieces (falling to pieces will here forth be referred to as “going bananas”). Apples: 15 Dalasis each...the usual starting point for your green apple here in Fajara, as “these apples (I have been told with great reverence) are brought in from Europe...no good, can’t go lower”.

Now, I have come to realize that no matter what vendors tell you...fruit is fruit...apples are apples...bananas are bananas...and in the African heat, nothing lasts.

I don’t care how “good” these apples are, I want to buy at least eight, and there is no way I am paying more than 25 Dalasis for two...that’s eight apples for 100 Dalasis. That was my request (I would take the kilo of bananas for 40...I just wanted eight apples for 100). Vendor says “no good”...I say “good bye”...and start across the street to the other vendor leaving M.C. standing there frustrated at my “principled” approach with our buddy (not our buddy).

Onto to vendor #2...

“How much for apples”, I say.

“15 Dalasis for one”, he says.

 “Two for 25”, I say.

“No good”, he says.

“C’mon...eight for 100”, I say.

He bags’em up. VICTORY...so I think...

“How much for bananas?”, I say.

” 50 Dalasis a kilo”, he says.

“The guy across the street is selling them for 40”, I say.

 “No, these good bananas”, he says.

“Bananas are bananas!” I say (at this point, I am going a little bananas).

“No, these very good bananas”, he says.

“Too good for me”, I say...and take off just as M.C. is arriving on the scene (In retrospect, I feel bad for leaving her in my dust once again...but I was blinded by “principle”).

Onto to the third attempt, around the corner at the actual fruit and vegetable market, rife with a dozen or so stands (re: lots of opportunity to engage in principled discussion and surely come away with fruit)

...to find it closed.

“I’m not going back to the first two”, I say defiantly to M.C.

Home, we bike...in silence...

At this point...Matty is unhappy—unhappy that I don’t have fruit, but too “principled” to easily ascertain said fruit.

You see, I was sure that upon walking away from the first vendor that he would call out and say...”ok...deal, bananas for 40 dalasis and eight apples for 100.”

Upon getting all the way across the street to the second vendor, I was CERTAIN that when I walked away from him he would call out and say...”ok...deal, bananas for 40 dalasis and eight apples for 100.”

I never pictured myself walking to an empty fruit market...fruitless...principled, but fruitless just the same.

At the end of the day for the cost of 10 dalasis—40 Canadian cents give-or-take—I could have enjoyed a nice (yet ever-spoiling) banana this morning with my muesli and yogurt...and a nice crunchy apple as I wrote this post.

But, at the end of the day, I stood on “principle”...Yes, despite this setback, I am able to look myself in the mirror and say “Matt...you are a principled human-being...And I am far too stubborn to ever give that up.

***

FYI: I’m headed down the alley as we speak to grab a couple bananas...I’m leaving my principle here at the computer.

Till Next Time...Don’t Stop Believin

Matty

Billy Goats Gruff

Before I begin, let me just say that I am super-duper sorry about my absence from the scene. A week with no posts is unacceptable, and yet I implore you to accept my excuse...that being that I have in vain been trying to download a video to the blog...unsuccessfully three or four times now. So here goes with the alternative...enjoy.

***

In North America, 40 might be the new 30 (or something to that effect) but over here...Stray goats are the new stray dog.

Now I’ve had the fortune to travel through parts of Southeast Asia and South America and I have seen my fair share of strays roaming the streets...lookin for trouble. I’ve been barked at more often than I care to remember by a stray mutt...but, it has always been a mutt (rhyme alert).

Here in The Gambia, however, I would venture to guess that stray goats outnumber stray dogs AT LEAST 5 to 1. There are goats everywhere...peeing and pooping on the street, baaa-ing at me and M.C. (rhyme alert #2)...and, of course, eatin garbage.

Now, it would actually be unfair for me to classify these goats as “strays” per say—I do it for pure amusement purposes. In fact, these goats leave from, and return to, their owners...their compounds...on a morning and nightly basis. They stroll the avenue (I kid you not, there are goats criss-crossing the busy Kairaba Avenue) and play gaily in the alleyways, all the while being left to their own devices by all passerby’s.

We have been informed that it is very rare that a goat will be “stolen” while away from its yard, and that all community members respect the fact that these goats represent a great deal of a person/family’s livelihood (in the way of goat milk and cheese).

...If only people had the same respect for un-supervised bicycles (We do not allow our bikes unattended without being locked up, in any circumstance).

***

Nice little aside to this goat story; We have our own adopted “pet” goat in our compound. Oliver (as M.C. named him) or Sh*thead (as I, so endearingly, named him—because we wake up every morning to a driveway full of goat pellets) is owned by our neighbours. He, though, NEVER leaves the yard. I think he’s lonely...and my god, he’s a homely looking thing.

Sh*thea...I mean Oliver - Homeliness Personified (you can scarcely make out the pee stain and pellets in the background

Until next time...Don’t Stop Believin

Matty

***

Cribbage Update: Matty stretched it out yesterday to a 19-11 lead...peggin strong.

Pakalinding

Hello all!

Since last checking in I’ve had the opportunity to part take in a few trips up country with the most recent one being to CRR (Central River Region). It was a full week in the field and took in two different 3 day workshops on HIV/AIDS and life skills for out of school youth. I travelled and facilitated the workshop with a co-worker and trainer from NSGA Abdou Kanteh. The week was full of learning and new experiences for me both in and out of the classroom.

First up-in the classroom. Abdou having come from the region was able to relate so well to both groups that we taught. There was a wide age range within the group from about 16-mid 30’s along with various different life experiences but the main thing connecting each participant was that no one was pursuing further schooling at this point. Some would have finished grade 12, some may not have, but all stood to benefit from information about HIV and AIDS and perhaps more importantly life skills such as critical thinking, decision making, emotion management, relationship and communication skills. The approach being that over the years there has been a lot of different initiatives around HIV/AIDS teaching and the general thought is that youth are aware of the risk and yet are still falling victim to HIV. Behaviour change is what is needed to combat this powerful virus and hopefully with teaching these life skills and empowering youth progress will be made in the fight against HIV and AIDS.

I did my best to contribute in the teaching of puberty, reproductive health and STI’s but there were a few obstacles. One-Mandinka (the local language). Although most participants could speak some English Abdou had to step in more than once to explain what I was trying to teach in Mandinka. I know it’s hard to believe but my own Mandinka is not quite up to par. Second-cultural and religious practices. This is a constant learning process. For instance- with regards to sexual health I had to avoid talking about condoms or birth control as they were not accepted within the communities we were working with. I also had some very interesting conversations surrounding female circumcision and early marriage. It is by times difficult to balance your own values and beliefs while attempting to understand another’s point of view.

Second up- Out of the classroom. As I mentioned Abdou was from the region (Pakalinding) and therefore I got to meet and spend lots of quality time with his immediate and extended family at their local compound. I can’t say enough about how welcoming and giving Gambians are. This was constantly displayed by his family and friends. They embraced me the moment I entered. Kids wanted to just be close to me, hold my hand or play with my hair. It is a strange feeling to have your every move watched with so much amazement. I should say most of the kids wanted to be close to me. There was one little girl (Abdou’s niece) who was absolutely terrified of me. She had never seen a white person before and would scream in terror when I entered the room. This went on for about 5 days but then on the 6^th day I made a breakthrough. Over dinner I caught her glancing at me from across the bowl (communal eating) and she actually smiled. I of course smiled back with much excitement.

One of my favourite moments included the dance circles that we would have mid afternoon. One of the younger girls would grab a water bucket and a few sticks start the drumming, the clapping and signing would follow. Eventually the elders would drag me up into the center of the circle and songs about me would start. There were a lot of chants like “Dance Toubab Dance” (dance white girl dance) I was initially rather shy and red as a beat but eventually broke out some classic Connolly moves handed down to me from generations of phenomenal dancers.

All in all it was a week I will never forget! I was however pleased to get back to our apartment that has quickly become home and hop on the new bike and head for the beach. A tough life I know...

Until next time, stay fit and have fun!

Mary Catherine

On the Road Again

I’m back! Back from the road...again. This time, from a full week’s worth of entertaining and informing young and old alike in communities of the Upper River Region (URR). I was stationed in Basse—the hub of URR action and, as it turns out (despite its mere 300kms distance from Fajara), a long drive...try almost 8 hours. But, the drive itself is lovely, the “highway” is well-manicured, the scenery at times is breath-taking, and I got to take two ferry rides each way, as we criss-crossed the River Gambia heading up-country.

Sunrise at Georgetown Ferry on the River Gambia

Now, like my previous roadie, the purpose of the expedition was to educate and inform youth about the dangers of HIV/AIDS and empower them with the necessary Life Skills to live happily and healthily. This time, however, we were dealing with out-of-school youth (aged 20-45). Everything proceeded famously, although much of the training was done in the Mandinka language...of which I am still a basic novice in comprehension, oral and certainly written...but I’m learning!

The highlights of the trip for me, however, were the evening soccer training sessions (here forth known as “football”) at the local pitch...err sandlot, followed by the nightly presentation of NSGA’s community cinema shows put on by my partner in crime, Pa-Madou Sarr (NSGA Media expert and trainer). Each night, myself and Pa, with Uncle Sanna at the wheel would head into a different small village on the outskirts of Basse and set up shop with our two speakers, stereo system, projector and screen, to show one of the many dramas recorded by the NSGA drama troupers (these skits deal with a wide range of health issues including teenage preganancy and early marriage).

See video below. (Err...don't. I tried to upload a video, but the connection here is too slow. Just one of the challenges at hand)

To top the whole trip off, upon the completion of our workshops, the local Basse Youth Association hosted a friendly football match in which yours truly suited up (luckily, as I mentioned, I had been training throughout the week) and stole the show...well not really, at times I felt I was wading through quicksand out on the dust and dirt. I would be running to receive a ball on terre firma when all of a sudden the earth would give way and I would be ankle deep in sand. I kid you not, it’s a whole different kettle of fish from what I’m used to dealing with back home. But, I did manage to set up a beauty goal (long ball chased down by one of the many Speedy Gonzalez’s out playing...man these guys can motor) and at the end of the second 25-minute half we were knotted at two goals apiece.

Basse Red Devils...and white guy

There is lots more to tell about my time in Basse, but I’ll save those stories and offer a steady dose of blog action as this week passes...my treat to all you faithful followers out there.

Glad to be back at the homestead...M.C. and I indulged in a few JulBrew’s as we debriefed Friday down at the beach (M.C. had been in the Central River Region village of Somma) and then hit the “town” with a cluster of U.S. Peace Corps members celebrating the Thanksgiving weekend. 

So yeah, glad to be back in Old Jeshwang and connected here in Fajara...but to be honest...I can’t wait to get on the road again.

Till next time, Don’t Stop Believin.

Matty

***

Follow @Matty_TheGambia on Twitter for all your Gambian updates and thoughts.

Holy Tobaski!!

Back home, the holidays are a time of celebration and gathering among family and friends. We dress up; good food and drink are shared; games are played; and laughter is at a paramount. This practice, it would seem, is universal...and our observance of the Tobaski feast has shown us so.

Tobaski...with an I (the Coles Notes version), as it was explained to me, is the annual Islamic festival of sacrifice; which  celebrates the ancient prophet, Ibrahim’s, promise to God that he would sacrifice his son, Ismail. God, in return and out of appreciation for Ibrahim’s gesture, replaced the son with a ram to be sacrificed instead.

***(You may want to read up on Tobaski on your own to get the story straight...obtaining accurate information all the time is a struggle with the resources available here)***

And, so it was that M.C. and I witnessed the slaughter...er, sacrifice of two rams on Tuesday.

***

Here on The Smiling Coast, two naive Canadians set out early on a sunny—everyday is sunny—Tuesday morning, alongside their Gambian colleague and friend, Nuru Sey, to join him and his family in the celebration.

Nuru stopped by our homestead in Old Jeshwang promptly at 9:30am, and we strolled to the main thoroughfare where we (Nuru) whistled down a worn 12 passenger van (public transport)—the old Doakmobile has nothing on this thing—with more than 12 locals aboard, to take us to the Sey family house in Busumballa (about a half hour trip). We were happily greeted by the Sey family (mother, brothers, sisters, in-laws, nephews and niece) with open arms.

Sacrifice of the Ram

By 11am, the men of the house—yours truly excluded—were dragging the first of two Rams to a hole dug in the soil, where the animal’s blood and innards would be drained and covered in hopes of fertilizing the arid land in the year ahead. I have to be honest; I was initially unsure of whether or not I would be able to watch the ram being slain, but it really was not as much of a struggle as I had anticipated.

Throat slit; blood drained; quick, easy and efficient... and on to the next Ram. Once both animals lay completely lifeless and devoid of excess blood, it was on to the skinning and dismembering of the bodies, and beginning of the barbeque. MMMMMMMM dericious!

Nuru (in yellow) with brothers and niece skinning sacrificed ram

By 12 noon, M.C. and I were enjoying a lovely dish of liver and onions (gamey), accompanied by chips (homemade fries) and salad. Rest assured that I took it upon myself to make certain that no trace of meat was left for the flies.

Game time!!

Soon after finishing up “Breakfast”, our colleague Muhammed and his wife Kelly (a native of Moncton, NB) arrived with their Scrabble board and Muhammed and I took to action.

I got pumped.

Turning point in the game... I decided not to challenge the use of the word “vetos”, which he had placed in a spot that would garner him over 40 points. I teetered back and forth for several minutes over whether or not the pluralized use of the word should read “vetoes” before I decided to let it stand. Bad move...game over.

I did redeem myself—somewhat—with much more closely contested win over M.C., before the real entertainment took place, in the form of Nuru and his older brother, Bashir, head-to-head at the scrabble board. Never in all my life have I seen such an “oilly” (yes, it was that type of game) and underhanded match at the board game table. But, for all those who observed, the sheer amount of pleasure and laughter that came from watching the two brothers try to outsmart and out- manoeuvre each other was priceless. Best part...the game was interrupted by an irreconcilable argument, and a winner could never truly be declared (although Nuru was ahead by a wide margin at that point).

More Food and more games

By 4:30-5pm, having snacked throughout the afternoon, “Lunch” was served. A large helping of Benechin (meal made from one pot)—rice with meat, pumpkin and eggplant—was served, and again...I ate plenty.

Before being able to fully digest the soccer ball was out and a 2v2 game was established just out the walls to the yard. To touch a ball for the first time since arriving here in The Gambia was FANTASTIC. Despite the size and condition of our playing surface—dust and rocks—the boys and I enjoyed a good 45 minutes of exercise and competition, and again...laughter. I proved, once again, to myself and to those around me, that I am NOT a goal scorer (no comments needed from anyone).

Sergio |Ramos digs in...

By 7:30pm, we were on our way back to the apartment to recover from and recast the day in our heads.

The Dress

Something I must mention is the traditional garb sported by most throughout the Tobaski celebration.  Now, in the run of a week (most prominently on Fridays) we will come across handfuls of locals decked out in the most colourful and vivacious of outfits. However, Tobaski represents a special opportunity for Gambians to truly and visibly show their pride in themselves, their faith and their land. The array of colors on the young kids, especially, is something to see.

Nuru's two nephews and niece

***

The dress, the family and friends, the food and drink (although non-alcoholic), the games and the laughter...it was just like being at home, and we were certainly made to feel as so.

Until next time...Don’t Stop Believin.

***

FYI: Just today we were able to hit market with Uncle Sanna at the wheel to bargain for ourselves two beauty sets of our own wheels...second-hand bikes (I got a red, three-speed). We are ready to roll from here on in.

Also, we are back on the road for a full week come tomorrow morning. We look forward to sharing our experience “up-country” upon our return...next weekend.

Matty 

Hello!

Hello all!

It is with great excitement that I say hi for the first time from...The Gambia! I’m the lucky (or crazy) girl that is traveling, working and living with Matt in The Gambia (MattyInTheGambia). I am happy to note that we are 2 weeks in and no fights! More specifically I’m the grateful Health Education Intern with ACIC and the NSGA.

Things have changed dramatically in my life over the past month. I went from nursing in PEI (the beautiful Island I call home) to a short chaotic month in Halifax, NS and now waking up to the African sun and heat. I’m am so proud to be working with The NSGA as in the little time I have been around this organization their work and impact on Gambian youth is remarkable. I have lots to learn about just what it is they do and how they go about it but each day I learn more. Hopefully with time I’ll be able to use some of nursing background and help along the way. The staff here have already proved to be amazing hosts and so very welcoming! They are also ever so patient as they try to teach me Wolof (one of The Gambia’s spoken dialects) and I struggle to even catch on to “hello” or “my name is”...I’ll keep you updated on my progress.

An important lesson I’ve learned in my short time in this country is to trust the cute little girls in the market when they sell you peppers and giggle while saying “they are very hot”. This is not to be underestimated. For instance using all of them in the spaghetti sauce or touching your eyes after cutting them leads to a bad scene. Your eyes feel like they have been pepper sprayed (or what I assume this would be like) and Matt is forced to flush your eyes out under the shower. Eiik. That was the start to my first attempt at a meal in our new place. Things can only get better?

I will be in touch from time to time. This will vary depending on the access to the internet. As you’ve heard from Matt it is a big challenge here! But we are currently in a air conditioned cafe with the best connection we’ve had so far! Life is good.

Take care,

M.C