Twoonies from Toubabs

Hey all, 

Beautiful winter day here along The Smiling Coast...hard to fathom (having been absent for over 10 weeks now) that a winter storm has delayed my mother's arrival for today...but fear not, she will arrive merely a day late, and the weekend will be saved for resting and re-cooping energy...on the beach.

***

But enough with underhanded slap to the face of those in the midst of blustery winter weather...the below story should warm your hearts...a little.

VALENTINE CARDS IN SUPPORT OF THE LOVE OF EDUCATION IN WEST AFRICA

Jakob Conrad is nine years old and already thinking about ways that he can “make a difference”. 

When he told his mom that going with her to The Gambia on his February break would be “like a dream come true”, she was convinced that he was ready for this trip of a lifetime. Knowing that he would come away from this experience with an enriched perspective on life and a lifetime of new friends, they talked about how he could give something in return. Jakob decided that he would raise money for the Nova Scotia Gambia Association (NSGA) by establishing a fundraising organization of his own. He wanted 100% of the proceeds from his fundraising to support the NSGA, and education in The Gambia in particular.

For 25 years, the NSGA has allowed West Africans and Canadians partner and build healthy communities in The Gambia. Through education and health promotion initiatives, NSGA staff and volunteers have become a major force in youth education and community development in West Africa. 

Jakob named his organization Twoonies from Toubabs.  In The Gambia, foreigners are pleasantly referred to as “Toubabs”. When Jakob heard this, he thought that he might be able to make things and sell them for a “Twoonie”, coining the clever and catchy phrase. His first project is a Valentine Card sale. He decided that since he will arrive in The Gambia on Valentine’s Day, this was the perfect first project for his new organization. He crafted 4 designs, and selected 4 photographs that were taken by SMU student Oliver Woods in The Gambia in December 2010. 

2000 cards have been printed, with the printing donated by Minuteman Press Halifax. The cards are selling for $2 each or 8 for $10. These can be purchased by contacting the NSGA office. He has set a goal of $2000.00. Please help him meet and surpass this target! You can learn more information and see the cards at: www.wix.com/toubabs/twoonies

To talk to Jakob or his mom about this initiative, please e-mail: exec.director@novascotiagambia.ca

*To learn more about the NSGA, go to: http://www.novascotiagambia.ca/

Just one example of how Canadians and West Africans are partnering for social change. And, hey...if you need to tell someone you love them on February 14th, Jakob's got you covered. 

So visit Jakob's site...and partner with the NSGA...for social change.

***

Until Next Time...Don't Stop Believin,

Matty

Discovering Girl Talk

Quiet Day in Office, means headphones on, Girl Talk in the ears All Day (sorry for those confused...but I'm sure many more of you know what I'm talking about), and work getting done.

For those interested, I have new pics up--those from December, minus the camera-stolen-pics taken in Dakar--for viewing pleasures. My picks are found here on flickr, or my facebook page.

Also, big news for me, as my mother leaves from Fredericton today to make the trek across the pond to visit her little boy. Mom arrives Thursday, and I'm deep in contemplation on what and where we shall visit first thing over her first weekend along The Smiling Coast. Stay tuned one and all.

Till Next Time...Don't Stop Believin,


Matty

Back to life...Back to reality

...well...perhaps a different reality. But, we are back to it here along The Smiling Coast, and our remaining time looks to be busy and action-packed. However, today I’ve given myself time to write.

Happy New Year, I guess would be the appropriate opening to a first blog post of the New Year. So yes, Happy New Year to one-and-all. And safe journey back to your own realities for those who spent the holiday abroad...like us.

That’s right; we went abroad for the holidays. To Dakar to be exact. From the 26^th to the 31^st to be exact. And, there will be no pictures because M.C.’s camera was stolen...to be exact.

Yes, sadly for friends, family, followers, and most importantly us, there will be no record of two Canadian’s four-day sojourn in the Senegalese Capital. So, you’ll just have to take my word for it.

Here goes:

After a lovely two-plus hour Christmas Eve mass (with incredible Christmas Carol singing from the choir) at the Catholic Church just a 15-minute stroll from our compound doors we settled in for Christmas Day witnessing the “haunting” or “masquerades” in Banjul, or as I like to call them, “the mob of slapping of little sticks, beating of drum, while one guy blows a whistle incessantly, while another guy in a scary-ish mask and outfit a la potato sack, dances around in the street”. With a couple hours in Banjul, we returned to Old Jeshwang for a nap, and then a lovely prepared Christmas Dinner of Chicken Yassa (local stew), brought to us by our colleague Abbie Barrow. Then off to bed for a 6am wake-up and journey to Dakar.

We were up and out the door at 6:15am. Quick walk to the main road and a van into town to the ferry by 7am. Across the ferry and in a taxi to the border...all seamless. We got to the border and got stamped. Sat and had breakfast before walking through the border...or as I will refer to it, the border-ish. Hopped on a little crotch rocket to take us to the car park, where we made our first mistake. Instead of hoping on the $15 “sept-places” (seven-seat station wagon) to take us the rest of the trip, we opted for the more spacious and less expensive ($8) bus that was virtually empty when we hopped on. There we sat for the next two-hours waiting for the once empty bus to fill itself to the brim. Shortly after 11am we were off...like a herd of turtles. Literally we got out of the cark park, and then parked...again...for ten minutes while the driver had the bus tires pumped up (something that couldn’t have conceivably been done in the preceding two-hours). Again we took to the road, for about 25 minutes, where we were stopped by Senegalese military/police/security officials to have the ENTIRE bus unloaded, all the luggage taken off the roof, all the passengers out, while we were searched for...sugar??? Or so I was told by a young lady sitting on the bus beside me. I’ll spare the rest of the details, but a good 1000 or so GINORMOUS pot-holes later, we arrived in Dakar as the sun was setting and were taxied to our quaint, yet amenable little auberge. We’re talkin comfy beds, CNN on the television and a beday in the washroom, type of quaint, yet amenable little.

All-in-all, Dakar is just big. Well big when you’ve been living in the sticks for two-months...and it’s still very much Africa. We spent a lot of time walking about, exploring...with no real agenda in mind. Dusty streets, marketeer-filled markets, shop-lined roads fill much of the upper neighbourhoods of Dakar as we walked southwest to the coast. Then...all of a sudden, WHAMMO!! (Pierre Mcguire alert) we were walking on broad, paved avenues, with multiple (6-7 floors) storied structures, tree lined roads and coffee shops (a la home) all around. Central Dakar is built like a North American or European city. Quite the shock to stumble upon, really...and for a while, quite a novel feeling.

While I could stammer on and on about this and that in Dakar, it would serve my time on the blog best to highlight the...ah...highlight of the trip. That, being our visit to Ile Goree. Ile Goree, a UNESCO World Heritage Site is a tiny little island just off the Southeast coast of Dakar that once upon a time served as a primary hub of West African slave trade activities. As it was explained to us, Goree is where captured (soon-to-be) slaves from throughout Africa were brought and housed (for those who have read The Book of Negroes you will be able to picture the scene) until they were auctioned off to their wealthy captures and then taken across the Atlantic to assume their fate. The history of the place is sobering...as is the feeling you get walking through the rusted and faded houses and structures that line the rocky beach, or as you pass to the top of the hill among numerous artisans all selling their (overpriced) lovely paintings of African motif. My favourite part of the day you ask...sitting on the beach enjoying a couple of the local brew (big surprise). Visiting Ile Goree is probably the most regrettable part about losing M.C.’s camera...we had taken so many breath-taking pics of the scenery...much in the backdrop of a setting sun.

Word of advice to anyone traveling to West Africa, go to Ile Goree, and take your overnight bags with you to stay the night. We didn’t, but were assured that had we, we would have been welcomed into any number of guesthouses on the quaint little piece of paradise.

We took the ferry back to Dakar, giddy and thrilled to have visited such a stunning place just as the night time air rolled in...and then the camera was stolen...and that about all I have to say about that.

Several more days in Dakar, with a visit to their 21^st Century “Sea Plaza” a chic little mall, with Big-Ball Bowling Alley and arcade that sits directly on the water, some marketing, and an evening taking in a local musician at the World Black Arts and Culture festival—sidenote, there was no word of a lie several hundred thousand people at said concert, and it took us over 20 minutes of shoving and ducking and diving to escape from the central area where the concert was held (Obama inauguration had nothing on this thing).  

Our trip home was much smoother, though not any comfier, as we snuggled into a sept-place at 7am to slalom in and around the crater-sized pot holes on the highway back to the border. Some unnecessary snooping by the drug patrol at the border later, we were on our way to the ferry back to Banjul, some unnecessary snooping by the immigration official at the ferry later we were in a cab back to our little Old Jeshwang with several hours to rest up before our big night out on the town to celebrate the New Year.

And a big celebration it was. We passed the New Year at the house of a U.S. foreign service official along with some 40 other ex-pats, including our new Canadian (3) and British (2) friends, and then headed into the touristy, bar area of Senegambia to party like it’s 2011 until the wee hours of the morning.

And so it is that after a whole week of work, a little trip up-country with our ex-pat amigos to visit our British friend who volunteers in the large hospital in the village of Bwiam (just this past weekend) that I find myself with a moment to update my friends, family, well-wishers, followers, and other nosy persons, who find time themselves to patronize my self-indulgent nature by reading this blog.

Holidays were great! Being back to work is wonderful as well. And as I realized last night, we are now just over 10 weeks into our adventure here on The Smiling Coast, and just under 10 weeks away from our return to Canada...where we will really be back to life...and back to reality.

Until Next Time...Don’t Stop Believin.

Matty

***

FYI: Cribbage Update – After, for some unconceivable reason, falling behind M.C. by a score of 27-20, the kid has been on a tremendous pegging streak, regaining the lead to the point where our best out of 101 battle 

stands at 29-27 for Matty.

Merry Christmas from The Smiling Coast

Merry Christmas and other such holiday greetings!!

Christmas Eve Sunset on The Smiling Coast

Just back from a lovely Christmas Eve mass in our fair Old Jeshwang, and want to wish each and every one of you a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

Till we connect again in 2011...This is Matty In The Gambia reminding you...Don't Stop Believin!!

Crocodile Rock and other WHAT's up

Yo, Yo...Ho, Ho!! 

It has been a rather relaxing, yet adventurous week here in West Africa, as M.C. and I have taken to exploring many of what were the “yet-to-be gotten to areas” of our (not-so) new (anymore) home. As most of you back home are only now settling in for your holiday activities—it being Christmas Eve Eve today, undoubtedly the best day of the year—we have been, in fact, enjoying the first of our two-weeks break from work (as the NSGA headquarters has shut down, and field work ceased for the holidays). So, it has been that we’ve enjoyed (as always) a few days lazily moping about the hammocks beach-side at our favourite Ex-Pat restaurant and bar, Leybato’s...book in hand (I’m on to Dickens now—Great Expectations). But, also during the week, you would have found us taking advantage of our free days by hoping on the trusty pedal bikes to meander the maze of streets, alleys, and “highways” that make up our corner of the world and get to the sites we had yet to visit.

Here’s a taste of WHAT has been up.

First of all, I would be remiss if I were not to mention our fantastic and successful Canadian Christmas Party, hosted at the Old Jeshwang homestead this past Saturday evening. We were joined by a dozen of our colleagues, as well as several other friends and neighbours for Christmas music and treats, a Crazy Eights (Crazy Eights rules in The Gambia turning the game into Crazier Eights...more to come on this later) tourney, several rousing games of Scrabble, and last but not least a most-enjoyed-by-all Yankee Swap, in which I came away with a box of the most delicious chocolate filled cookies. Mmmmm dericious! 

No, it was a different evening from the Christmas parties we are used to back home, but being surrounded by friends in happy and high spirits isn’t, in fact, all that different from what we really aspire to at this time of year anyways...is it? And, furthermore, it felt nice to not only be able to celebrate the season in some manner, but to also include our friends here in The Gambia. Friends, who have gone out of their way to make us feel comfortable and at home in our now 7+ weeks here. 

Canadian Christmas Party = Success!

Sunday...was a beach day...all day. Sun...shine...cards...book...music...waves...walk...and...JulBrew.

Monday, I shook hands with a Crocodile. Literally.

Kachakally Crocodile Pond is a mere 10-15 minute bike-ride from our apartment, towards the water in Bakau. After zigzagging through the innards of Bakau, a nice little adventure in itself, we arrived at the Pond/Bakau Museum entrance. Before getting to the crocodiles, you walk through the museum—three huts dedicated to the history of Bakau. The first hut is dedicated to the ceremonial past of Bakau...namely the ceremonial practice of circumcision...male and female. Literally, there are over a dozen pictures and descriptions of a young man or women, fresh from the scissors. And yet, after being here for 7+ weeks and having been privy to the rather candid discussion that takes place among people here regarding these practices, neither of us was all that phased with the idea that a museum would pay homage to such. Hut number two displayed various musical instruments and the role of music throughout the ages in Bakau. The third hut was a depiction of the role played by Gambian soldiers in the two world wars. I was, in fact, quite surprised to learn about the impact that West Africans had in the allied efforts.

After spending 20-or-so minutes museuming...we wandered the path through the trees...BIG trees. Seriously, you gotta see these things until we were...wait a minute...is that...wait, that is. Holy crap! That’s a crocodile...no, it’s not a real...yes it is! That’s a crocodile...right in front of us. 

As M.C. said, could you imagine if you came with little kids who ran ahead and all of a sudden tripped over Gus the crocodile laying there...mouth wide-open, cooling in the shade.

There’s no warning...no friendly reminder that you’re nearing your new reptilian friends. You basically round the corner and are face-to-face with over 80 crocodiles; a little unnerving at first. But, then we realized that these guys are so lethargic, so drugged up—I said to the guy tending the shop “They must be drugged up, right?” He said, “No, just herbs and natural medicines.” To which I said, “Yea, that’s drugs.”...with a smile—that they really pose no threat at all. The guy also explained that they do not eat human flesh and that I should shake hands with one of them. “No, that’s alright,” I said. He insisted. I relented” (And the above pic is proof...

(And as a wise-ish man once said “A proof is a proof. And when you have a proof, that’s a proof”, or something to that effect).

Tuesday was the best beach day of the year so far. The waves were money. The sun was great. And, there was a lovely breeze that swept along the coast. Furthermore, we met up with two new Canadian friends Tuesday evening for dinner on the beach. Emma and Paul had just arrived to undertake, like ourselves, a five-month CIDA internship here in The Gambia. Oh how nice it was to sit down and commiserate with folks from home.  It was lovely evening...and to top it off, I found a nice little spot to enjoy JulBrew on tap on our way back to Old Jeshwang.

Wednesday, yesterday, was a particularly special day here in The Gambia as we were invited by our new friends from the U.S. Peace Corps to join them for lunch and Christmas cookies...and Wii, at the U.S. Embassy house that one of the girls was briefly staying at.

First thing in the morning, however, we hoped on the bikes and made our way to the Serrekunda Market, a labyrinth of epic proportions, where showering pre-visit is wasted water. We walked for an hour, through the vegetables and fish (with a large order of flies on the side), the clothing, and the little trinkets that make up a market before we decided that was had had a good first visit and decided to head cross-country (exploring a new area—Koto) towards Senegambia to meet up with our U.S. friends. We arrived at the Embassy mansion and enjoyed a lovely hamburger pie with Christmas Carols playing in the background, a couple games of Wii tennis and made peanut-butter cookies with caramel centres which tasted great, all the while enjoying the air conditioned reprieve from the world around us. I could have mistaken myself for being back home, but then realized that I, or no one I know, has a place that nice back home.

Last night, we put the Muppet Family Christmas on (you know that old one where all the Muppet, Sesame Street, and Fraggle characters are at Fozzy Bear’s mother country home for Christmas and the Swedish Chef tries to cook Big Bird...gobbly gobbly humongor!) and really got into the spirit...er spirits...

So, yea...it’s been a great week. Sunset on the beach this evening another treat. Tomorrow will most likely be a beach day. Saturday, Christmas Day, we have been invited to Banjul by our colleague Nuru to a barbeque and to enjoy the “Masquerades” that take place throughout the city. Sunday, we will adventurously take to the road and travel cross-border to Dakar, Senegal for 5-or-so days. We are told that when all goes smoothly, it is a 6-hour trip, but to be prepared for the worst travel day of our lives. I’m sure it will all be worth it though to experience what is supposed to be a diverse and lively city...And, since we parlez-vous, we’ve been assured that getting about the city will be relatively easy.

So...although scrambled and speed-written, that is the WHAT of what has been up over the past week-ish here in The Gambia.

I trust all is well across the world for each and every one of you. Best wishes for the holiday season from Matty In The Gambia! And, be in touch. I’ll be in touch once returned from Senegal next week.

Till Next Time...Don’t Stop Believin,

Matty

And so it goes...

Wow...just like that it’s been a whole week (again) since I’ve last touched base with all my fans (appropriate to refer to all as such?). But, as quick as time must seem to fly for all those combating the quickly coming holiday season, we here on The Smiling Coast are also caught up in the swift swirl of time as it flies by...as pleasantly as the newly arrived winter breeze, I must add. Yes, the winter weather here in The Gambia is the tits! (M.C. says I can use that word) I awake in the mornings not sweaty, bike to work only mildly sweaty upon arrival, and spend my evenings enjoying the pleasant and non-insufferable winter nights.

I spent much of the last week taking a daily transit (an adventure on its own) in to our fare capital city of Banjul—a fifteen to twenty minute sojourn—to aide my fellow colleague, Yankouba Bojang (NSGA Drama Touper) conduct two Malaria prevention & Behaviour Change Communication workshops with both high school and middle school aged students. Having not ever been threatened by malaria, nor educated the littlest bit about the parasite, I was at first unsure of what my contribution to these seminars would be...until we got to the communication piece and I found my opening.

Persuasion, rhetoric, energizers and games...these are my bag, and though needing to be simplified for young minds, I was able to impart some knowledge of the Ethos, Pathos and Logos needed to convince others that sleeping under an insecticide-treated bed-net is the best way to prevent the spread of malaria throughout West Africa.

***

So, now we are on our two-week holiday, while the office here closes for Christmas. Yes, we live in an overwhelmingly predominant Muslim country, but still there exists a flavour of Christmas. And, we are assured, there is lots of fun to be had both on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day—with masquerades aplenty in Banjul.

Oh yea, we (well...mostly M.C.) are hosting a Christmas Party this evening (I’m just along for my youthful good looks and wit) at our pad in Old Jeshwang for our friends, colleagues and neighbours. We are even going to try a Yankee Swap...which reminds me...I have yet to pick up a small gift. Hmmmm, best be getting on to that.

In the meantime everyone, I will endeavour to get back to this blog in short order with a report from our party and an update on our holiday happenings.

Also, I need to redeem myself in our Cribbage epic. After stretching out to a 20-11 lead, I now (after three skunks and a 9-game losing streak) find myself down 23-20...eeek. Time to turn things around.

Until Next Time...Don’t Stop Believin,

Matty 

Pics

I know it's been a long-time coming...but I was finally able to upload pictures from our first month here in The Gambia.

For those of you keeping score at home, we have been here just over 5 weeks now. That's 1/4 of our journey in the books...now those books are up on flickr, here

Enjoy!

Till Next Time...Don't Stop Believin.

Matty