Yo, Yo...Ho, Ho!!
It has been a rather relaxing, yet adventurous week here in West Africa, as M.C. and I have taken to exploring many of what were the “yet-to-be gotten to areas” of our (not-so) new (anymore) home. As most of you back home are only now settling in for your holiday activities—it being Christmas Eve Eve today, undoubtedly the best day of the year—we have been, in fact, enjoying the first of our two-weeks break from work (as the NSGA headquarters has shut down, and field work ceased for the holidays). So, it has been that we’ve enjoyed (as always) a few days lazily moping about the hammocks beach-side at our favourite Ex-Pat restaurant and bar, Leybato’s...book in hand (I’m on to Dickens now—Great Expectations). But, also during the week, you would have found us taking advantage of our free days by hoping on the trusty pedal bikes to meander the maze of streets, alleys, and “highways” that make up our corner of the world and get to the sites we had yet to visit.
Here’s a taste of WHAT has been up.
First of all, I would be remiss if I were not to mention our fantastic and successful Canadian Christmas Party, hosted at the Old Jeshwang homestead this past Saturday evening. We were joined by a dozen of our colleagues, as well as several other friends and neighbours for Christmas music and treats, a Crazy Eights (Crazy Eights rules in The Gambia turning the game into Crazier Eights...more to come on this later) tourney, several rousing games of Scrabble, and last but not least a most-enjoyed-by-all Yankee Swap, in which I came away with a box of the most delicious chocolate filled cookies. Mmmmm dericious!
No, it was a different evening from the Christmas parties we are used to back home, but being surrounded by friends in happy and high spirits isn’t, in fact, all that different from what we really aspire to at this time of year anyways...is it? And, furthermore, it felt nice to not only be able to celebrate the season in some manner, but to also include our friends here in The Gambia. Friends, who have gone out of their way to make us feel comfortable and at home in our now 7+ weeks here.
Canadian Christmas Party = Success!
Sunday...was a beach day...all day. Sun...shine...cards...book...music...waves...walk...and...JulBrew.
Monday, I shook hands with a Crocodile. Literally.
Kachakally Crocodile Pond is a mere 10-15 minute bike-ride from our apartment, towards the water in Bakau. After zigzagging through the innards of Bakau, a nice little adventure in itself, we arrived at the Pond/Bakau Museum entrance. Before getting to the crocodiles, you walk through the museum—three huts dedicated to the history of Bakau. The first hut is dedicated to the ceremonial past of Bakau...namely the ceremonial practice of circumcision...male and female. Literally, there are over a dozen pictures and descriptions of a young man or women, fresh from the scissors. And yet, after being here for 7+ weeks and having been privy to the rather candid discussion that takes place among people here regarding these practices, neither of us was all that phased with the idea that a museum would pay homage to such. Hut number two displayed various musical instruments and the role of music throughout the ages in Bakau. The third hut was a depiction of the role played by Gambian soldiers in the two world wars. I was, in fact, quite surprised to learn about the impact that West Africans had in the allied efforts.
After spending 20-or-so minutes museuming...we wandered the path through the trees...BIG trees. Seriously, you gotta see these things until we were...wait a minute...is that...wait, that is. Holy crap! That’s a crocodile...no, it’s not a real...yes it is! That’s a crocodile...right in front of us.
As M.C. said, could you imagine if you came with little kids who ran ahead and all of a sudden tripped over Gus the crocodile laying there...mouth wide-open, cooling in the shade.
There’s no warning...no friendly reminder that you’re nearing your new reptilian friends. You basically round the corner and are face-to-face with over 80 crocodiles; a little unnerving at first. But, then we realized that these guys are so lethargic, so drugged up—I said to the guy tending the shop “They must be drugged up, right?” He said, “No, just herbs and natural medicines.” To which I said, “Yea, that’s drugs.”...with a smile—that they really pose no threat at all. The guy also explained that they do not eat human flesh and that I should shake hands with one of them. “No, that’s alright,” I said. He insisted. I relented” (And the above pic is proof...
(And as a wise-ish man once said “A proof is a proof. And when you have a proof, that’s a proof”, or something to that effect).
Tuesday was the best beach day of the year so far. The waves were money. The sun was great. And, there was a lovely breeze that swept along the coast. Furthermore, we met up with two new Canadian friends Tuesday evening for dinner on the beach. Emma and Paul had just arrived to undertake, like ourselves, a five-month CIDA internship here in The Gambia. Oh how nice it was to sit down and commiserate with folks from home. It was lovely evening...and to top it off, I found a nice little spot to enjoy JulBrew on tap on our way back to Old Jeshwang.
Wednesday, yesterday, was a particularly special day here in The Gambia as we were invited by our new friends from the U.S. Peace Corps to join them for lunch and Christmas cookies...and Wii, at the U.S. Embassy house that one of the girls was briefly staying at.
First thing in the morning, however, we hoped on the bikes and made our way to the Serrekunda Market, a labyrinth of epic proportions, where showering pre-visit is wasted water. We walked for an hour, through the vegetables and fish (with a large order of flies on the side), the clothing, and the little trinkets that make up a market before we decided that was had had a good first visit and decided to head cross-country (exploring a new area—Koto) towards Senegambia to meet up with our U.S. friends. We arrived at the Embassy mansion and enjoyed a lovely hamburger pie with Christmas Carols playing in the background, a couple games of Wii tennis and made peanut-butter cookies with caramel centres which tasted great, all the while enjoying the air conditioned reprieve from the world around us. I could have mistaken myself for being back home, but then realized that I, or no one I know, has a place that nice back home.
Last night, we put the Muppet Family Christmas on (you know that old one where all the Muppet, Sesame Street, and Fraggle characters are at Fozzy Bear’s mother country home for Christmas and the Swedish Chef tries to cook Big Bird...gobbly gobbly humongor!) and really got into the spirit...er spirits...
So, yea...it’s been a great week. Sunset on the beach this evening another treat. Tomorrow will most likely be a beach day. Saturday, Christmas Day, we have been invited to Banjul by our colleague Nuru to a barbeque and to enjoy the “Masquerades” that take place throughout the city. Sunday, we will adventurously take to the road and travel cross-border to Dakar, Senegal for 5-or-so days. We are told that when all goes smoothly, it is a 6-hour trip, but to be prepared for the worst travel day of our lives. I’m sure it will all be worth it though to experience what is supposed to be a diverse and lively city...And, since we parlez-vous, we’ve been assured that getting about the city will be relatively easy.
So...although scrambled and speed-written, that is the WHAT of what has been up over the past week-ish here in The Gambia.
I trust all is well across the world for each and every one of you. Best wishes for the holiday season from Matty In The Gambia! And, be in touch. I’ll be in touch once returned from Senegal next week.
Till Next Time...Don’t Stop Believin,
Matty
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